• Skip to secondary menu
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • About
  • Blog
  • Contact Me

The Inspired Workshop

Inspiring you to Do-It-Yourself

  • Home
  • Furniture Plans
  • Remodeling
  • How To
  • Holiday
  • Crafts
  • Tools
  • Videos
You are here: Home / Archives for Furniture

Furniture

DIY Hinges Made From Dowel and Pipe

November 22, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

So you built the DIY TV Stand and now you want to add the doors, here’s where I show you how to take an oak dowel rod and a little copper pipe and turn them into DIY hinges for your media cabinet!

DIY Hinges

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

I even have a video for you guys to go along with this post…but I have to admit, it is not the best! ๐Ÿ˜… I am still working on figuring out a way to make videos without having someone stand behind the camera…and it’s not easy! I get working and get into my own little world and forget that I am needing to show every little step, and before I know it, I’m done and the video caught very little of what I did! Lol! It should be posted here tomorrow!

Materials for DIY hinges:

**Note Amazon links below are affiliate links! Affiliate links show that you came from my website and pays me a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase after clicking an Amazon link! I appreciate it any time you make purchases from a link of mine! It makes me do a happy dance!๐Ÿ˜‰

-1 – 1/2″ x 4ft oak dowel rod (you definitely want oak or hardwood, not pine)

-1 –1/2″ x 2ft copper pipe

-1 – 5/8″ pine dowel rod – shortest length you can find, it’s only for capping off the top.

-1 – spare dowel rod, smaller than 1/2″ to use to measure the depth of holes, you won’t cut this one, it’s only to measure!

–1/2″ Forstner bit

–5/8″ Forstner bit

–epoxy

–drill

-saw

–pipe cutter

–square

CUT LIST:

There really isn’t a set cut list because, on your dowel rods, you will have to measure how deep you drill your holes into the cabinet and into the doors, plus 1/8″ to get your measurements! This will vary trust me, some were only 2 1/8″ and others were 3 1/4″! LOL! I was a little more heavy-handed with the drill bit on some more than others!๐Ÿ˜ณ

With the pipe it is the same, you will have to cut your pipe based on the depth of holes drilled into the cabinet!

Making Your DIY Hinges from Dowel and Pipe

Drill holes in the bottom of the media cabinet

Drill 4 – 5/8″ holes along the bottom 2×4 of the media cabinet. Mark 1 1/4″ from the leg (2×4 @ 34 1/2″ board) and 3/4″ from the front of the 2×4, place an X. You will drill right smack in the center of the X! Go about an inch or so deep.

*When it is zoomed in to see the spacing of the hole, you can’t really see where the hole is on the cabinet so as you scroll the next three photos, it’s just zooming out!

DIY Dowel and Pipe hinges

DIY Dowel and Pipe Hinges

DIY Dowel and Pipe Hinges

DIY Hinges

Cut Pipe to Fit in Holes

After drilling all four holes along the bottom, use the copper pipe and stick it in each hole to mark where to cut the pipe! Each of mine was different measurements! Lol! Using the pipe cutter, cut your pipe to size.

DIY HInges - fitting the pipe

Cutting the Pipe for DIY Hinges

Don’t mind that I had to take screenshots from my phone! Lol!

Epoxy Pipe in Place

Using a fast dry epoxy that mixes itself, I lightly smeared it on the inside of the hole and stuck the pipe in the hole to set. I also added a small amount to the very bottom of the hole to create a hard surface for the dowel rod to rotate on, since pine is a softwood, I didn’t want the dowel to wear it down with every turn and then the door sink down the 1/8″ that we have spaced to hold it up and rub on the bottom!

DIY Hinges - How to epoxy the pipe

DIY Hinges

I didn’t plan on it, but I ended up letting the epoxy sit overnight to make sure it was hardened in the bottom of the hole and I am glad I did, you don’t want your dowel stuck in the epoxy if it happens to not be dry all the way!๐Ÿ˜† Granted, I used the epoxy at like 9 pm, so it was only 12 hours or so, not 24!

Drill Holes in the Bottom of the Doors

After the bottom pipe is set, you have to drill holes in the bottom of the doors. Measure your bottom holes again, we know the holes were SUPPOSED to be at 1 1/4″ and 3/4″ but sometimes the actual holes are a little off…oh that only happens to me?! Skip this step if that doesn’t happen to you as well! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿค”

Measure to make sure where your holes ended up, and from the 1 1/4″ measurement, subtract 3/16″. This will give you a 3/16″ gap for the door to swing.

DIY Hinges

DIY Hinges - drilling the holes for the dowel rods

DIY Hinges

If you only do 1/8″ on the spacing here, the door will rub, it still works, but rubs! Ask me how I know! Oy! Yes, the first door that I did at 1/8″ rubs, so I moved the others the extra 1/16″ and it worked perfectly!

Let’s say your measurement that was supposed to be 1 1/4″ was actually drilled at 1 3/16″ inches to center, you will mark to drill the hole in your door at 1″, and 3/4″. Drill the hole in the door with a 1/2″ drill bit…NOT THE 5/8″ DRILL BIT. Why do I stress this in all caps? You guessed it, I drilled my first door with the 5/8″ drill bit that was already in my drill…LIKE AN IDIOT!!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ Nothing that a little epoxy and toothpicks couldn’t fix but save yourself the trouble, grab the 1/2″ drill bit!!!๐Ÿ˜…

Measure to Cut Dowel Rod for Bottom Doors

Okay, now you will use the small dowel rod again and stick it into the bottom hole in the cabinet, measure. Add 1/8″ to that measurement. Stick the small dowel rod into the door and mark the dowel, measure that…and add the number you had from the cabinet and 1/8″ to this number. This will be the measurement for your 1/2″ oak dowel rod that will be glued inside that door.

So let’s say your hole in the cabinet is 1″, plus the 1/8″ = 1 1/8″ then let’s say the depth of the hole in the door measures 1 1/4″, your total size to cut your dowel rod for that door is 2 3/8″ long.

Once it’s cut, you can glue it in the door and test it. You will have to pound it into the hole with a hammer and a scrap wood block. I cut mine a hair on the long side just in case, you can easily cut it down while it’s in the door but it’s a lot harder to pull it out and cut a new one.

DIY Hinges

Check the spacing, you are looking at the spacing between the top of the door and the cabinet and the bottom of the door and the cabinet. You are also checking the space on the left or right of the door (whichever is the hinge side) making sure it isn’t too close or too far away from the cabinet leg.

DIY Hinges

If all the spacing looks good, you will want to drill the holes in the top of the cabinet.

Drilling the Holes in the Top of the Media Cabinet

You will want to mark the holes on the top the same as the bottom, the only problem is, the top doesn’t have a 2×4 on its side, you are drilling through the face of the 2×4. Luckily, using a square you can manage to mark it the same as the bottom.

DIY Hinges made from dowel rods and pipe

DIY Hinges Made from Dowel and Pipe

Make sure and use a scrap piece of wood clamped to the top of the cabinet to keep from having rough holes on the top of the cabinet.

Drill the holes!

DIY Hinges

I had to use an extender only because my shelf was in the drill’s way, if you have already notched the shelf as it is shown in the media cabinet plans, you shouldn’t need an extender!

Epoxy Pipe in Top of Media Cabinet

Once the top cabinet holes are drilled, you can epoxy the pipe in the top holes just as you did in the bottom. You know the holes are drilled 1 1/2″ deep but you will want the pipe set down a 1/4″ or so so that you can cap the hole with a 5/8″ dowel and not see any of the pipe or hole! So cut 4 pipe pieces at 1 1/4″ and epoxy in place!

DIY Hinges

Drilling the Holes in the Top of the Doors

Allow the epoxy to set. Then place the doors back in place, line them up and drill through the top of the cabinet into the door with your 1/2″ drill bit. Drilling the door holes this way helps ensure the holes are lined up!

DIY Hinges

Measuring to Cut Dowel Rods for Top Doors

Using a long dowel rod not cut to size yet, you can check the door and see how it’s going to look!

DIY Hinges made from dowel rods and pipe

Now using the small dowel rod, measure how deep you drilled the holes into the top of your doors, add 1/8″ and add 1 1/4″ to that measurement!

Let’s say you drilled into your door 1 1/8″, add 1/8″ to that = 1 1/4″ then add + 1 1/4″ = 2 1/2″, you would cut your 1/2″ oak dowel at 2 1/2″ and glue it into place from the top of the cabinet! You will have to hammer it into place using another piece of the dowel so that you can hammer it into the hole…if that makes sense!

Cover the Holes in the Top of the Media Cabinet

Once you have hammered the dowel rods into place in the top, you will cut 1/4″ pieces of 5/8″ pine dowels to cover the holes in the top. Make sure and use wood glue, but don’t gob it on, keep it minimal so it doesn’t squeeze out on top! Stain the dowel! BOOM!! You just made your OWN hinges from dowels and pipe!! How cool is that?! I was pretty proud, and you have every right to be as well!๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜Š

DIY Hinges

 

Open and close those doors…open and close, open and close…you did that…you did that!! ๐Ÿ’ƒWoohoo! Now sit back and enjoy that fact that YOU built a media cabinet to hide all the ugly stuff! Haha!!

Let me know if you have any questions or comments below! I appreciate you stopping by!

Wanna share this with family or friends?

22 Shares
Pin22
Tweet
Share

Wanna save these DIY hinges from dowel and pipe for later?! PIN IT!

DIY Hinges - Make your own hinges from a dowel rod and pipe

Filed Under: Furniture, How To, Projects, Tips and Tricks Tagged With: diy hinges, dowel hinges, make your own hinges, media cabinet

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

November 9, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

This is some funny shiz I tell you! This DIY TV Stand was supposed to be posted on the 4th of January! ๐Ÿ˜… When I pulled the draft up, I had a GREAT LAUGH at what I felt coming into 2020…if only I would have known!!! OY!!!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜‚ This is what it said:

“Happy New Year! Can you believe another year has FLOWN by? I cannot…though I cannot say I am upset about 2019 being over either! Lol! I am excited to see what 2020 has in store and it is starting off pretty great since I was able to complete today’s beautiful DIY TV stand/media console!”

Bwahahaha!! I can’t believe I thought 2020 was going to be GREAT and I was happy 2019 was over…what I would do to have 2019 back now!!๐Ÿ˜‚ I have had enough of you Corona, feel free to leave ANY DAY NOW! Lol!

Moving on! Let me show you the media console already I mean that is actually what this post is about, I promise!๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

I mean, isn’t that the most beautiful, brawny thing you have ever seen? ๐Ÿ˜ (Don’t worry, that strange pinkish stripe isn’t so obvious in real life! Lol!) I saw a media console just like this over at RH.com and I could not help but copy them and build it! I LOVE this thing and am so happy to not only have this LARGE version available but I will also have plans for a smaller one as well Friday!

DIY TV Stand

I know that not everyone has 93″ to spare on a living room wall for this DIY tv stand but the smaller version will only require 49″ of space! Woohoo!

I also have a few other projects that you may want to take a look at if this DIY TV stand is too large for your space!

DIY Industrial Media Console

DIY Slim Truss Console Table

This buffet could definitely be used as a media console if you wanted as well! Herringbone Door Buffet 

I love that it looks a little rustic farmhouse, but at the same time has such a unique modern look! I am completely smitten with this piece of furniture! โ˜บ First, it was gnomes throughout the holidays, now it is my DIY media console! Wow, it really doesn’t take a lot to steal my heart…my hubby better watch out!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜œ

DIY Restoration Hardware Knockoff Console Table

Not only is it beautiful on the outside, but it’s also beautiful on the inside as well…you know where it normally doesn’t count on a piece of furniture! Haha! It has all the media storage you need, DVD and game drawers, and shelves that hold all the accessories and consoles perfectly!

(Don’t mind that the back isn’t on yet! Lol! Or that I don’t have pictures in those frames either!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ)

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

DIY Media Cabinet

Enough about me and my love affairs…would you like to build one? I do, I do!

Here are the downloadable plans:

DIY LARGE MEDIA CONSOLE
DIY TV stand / Media Cabinet

DIY SMALL MEDIA CONSOLE

DIY Small Media Console

If you love this DIY tv stand/media console but you don’t have time to build it now, make sure and PIN IT so you can find it later!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Materials for DIY TV Stand:

**Amazon links below are affiliate links! Any purchases made after clicking an affiliate will pay me a small percentage of your purchase amount at no extra cost to you! And I really appreciate it!๐Ÿ˜˜ Other links are provided to help you but are not affiliate links!๐Ÿ‘

-2 – 3/4″ – 4×8 sheets of plywood

-1 – 1/2″ 4×8 sheet of plywood

-7 – 2x4x10

-1 – 2x6x10

-1 – 1x12x10

-1 – 1x4x10

-2 – 1x5x8

-3 – 1x2x8

-2 – 2x2x8

-1 – 2x3x8

-2 – 1/4″ 2×4 sheet of plywood

–Kreg Jig

–Wood glue

–2 1/2″ pocket hole screws

–1 1/4″ pocket hole screws

–1″ pocket hole screws

–2″ flat head screws – This is my FAVORITE brand of wood screw ever!

–saw

–drill

–jig saw or scroll saw

-1/2″ oak dowels for the hinges

-5/8″ pine dowel

-1/2″ copper pipe for hinges

–epoxy

–pipe cutter

 

Cut List for DIY TV Stand:

2 – 2×4 @ 93″ mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel (front and back of the top frame)

2 – 2×4 @ 20″ mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel (side of the top frame)

6 – 2×4 @ 40 1/2″ (front and back rails)

6 – 2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (legs)

3 – 2×4 @ 16″ (side and middle rails)

4 – 2×6 @ 26 3/4″ (doors)

4 – 1×12 @ 26 3/4″ (doors)

4 – 1×4 @ 26 3/4″ (doors)

8 – 2×2 @ 15 1/2″ (doors)

4 – 2×3 @ 22 3/4″ (door handles)

1 –  3/4″ piece of plywood @ 13″ x 86″ (top)

3 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 16″ x 27″ (sides and middle)

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 16″ x 87″ (bottom)

2 – 1/4″ pieces of plywood @ 24″ x 43″ (back) you can route a space or just staple on

Optional Interior – Wood is accounted for in the Materials list

Interior left:

8 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ for undershelf braces

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 43 5/8″ with notches cut on the front edge

3 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 36″ (drawer bottoms)

6 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood ripped down to 3 1/2″ wide x 36″ long (drawer fronts and backs)

6 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood ripped down to 3 1/2″ wide x 14 3/4″ long (drawer sides)

4 – 1×5 @ 43 5/8″

Interior Right:

8 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ undershelf braces

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 43 5/8″ with notches cut on the front edge

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 20″ (first vertical board)

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 36 5/8″ with notch cut in right front edge (second horizontal shelf)

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 14″ (second vertical board)

 

Option 2: One shelf on each side

2 – 3/4″ pieces of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 43 5/8″ with notches cut on front edges

If you want the free downloadable plans, click the link and enter your email, the plans will be sent straight to your inbox! DIY TV Stand Printable Plans

Building the DIY TV Stand

I used the Kreg Jig to build this DIY TV stand, so let me share a little info on how to use the Kreg Jig just in case you are new here!

Since we are using 2x wood (2x4s) the actual width of the 2x4s is 1 1/2″, so we are going to set the Kreg Jig to 1 1/2″.

How to set the depth of a Kreg Jig

Then we will set the drill bit to the same depth of 1 1/2″.

How to use a Kreg Jig

Now clamp your board, and drill your holes!

How to Use a Kreg Jig

Building the back frame of the DIY TV Stand / Media Console

You can see in the photos below where you need to place the pocket holes.

You will want to use wood glue on ALL the joints during the build and any 2x wood, you will use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws!

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

DIY Media Cabinet

The back frame is done.

Building the front frame of the DIY TV Stand / Media Console

The front frame is almost the same as the back except the 2x4s @ 40 1/2″ across the top are not there. You will just add the actual top board (2×4 @ 93″ 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel) to hold it all together. This same board will be placed on the back frame in later steps as well.

The top frame board is not flush with the front or back but centered on the two, which will make it a 1″ overhang on both sides. I used 1″ scrap pieces of wood under the other 2x4s to keep it in place and amke sure it was attached correctly.

back

DIY Media Consolefront
DIY Media Console

See how it is missing the top 2x4s? That’s how you want it to look! Front frame is done! See downloadable plans if you need extra help understanding the building of the front or back frame.

Attaching Front and Back Frames

Attach the front and back frames together using the side and middle rail boards (3 – 2x4s @ 16″).

I added the side plywood at the same time as the bottom 2x4s to keep everything square and held in place. The plywood is only 3/4″ thick, actual measurement, so the Kreg Jig will need to be changed to 3/4″, the drill bit will need to be changed to 3/4″ as well. You will use 1 1/4″ screws to attach!

Make sure and drill pocket holes on all four sides of the plywood, the holes drilled along the top of the plywood will be used later to attach the top.

I used a place holder because I used a solid bottom piece of plywood instead of two cut pieces. I placed the middle 2×4 @ 16″ down 3/4″ to accommodate the plywood going over it. If this doesn’t make sense, the printable plans will help!

Make sure and use wood glue on the plywood as well.

DIY TV Stand

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

Now, go figure, it wouldn’t be a complete post if I didn’t forget to take pictures at a certain point or lose the pictures if I did take them! I swear if only I started and finished a project in a normal amount of time, maybe I wouldn’t have to say this pretty much EVERY STINKING POST! OY! As usual, I apologize and will use Sketchup pics where I didn’t take them!

Now, the next few steps are shown in the order that I did them, but you are more than welcome to change that up, I was not sure what I was doing for the shelves at first so I built the basic outside structure and then added the shelving, the doors, and last the drawers because they have to fit inside the doors!

Adding the Bottom Plywood

I attached the bottom plywood at this point, I usually always flip a cabinet over and attach top first and work my way down (up) to the bottom, but I am not using pocket holes to attach my shelves so I did not add them first, but you can.

The easiest way to do this is to place your plywood across the bottom, and then clamp scrap boards across the bottom of the media cabinet along the 2x4s, then flip the cabinet over so you can lay your plywood on your scrap boards and it will be supported while you screw it into place! (Pretend the plywood is under those ‘clamped boards’…lol!)

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Add the Middle Partition

Choose whichever side you would like the pocket holes to face. Screw the partition into place!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Building the Top of the DIY TV Stand

Now we can finish the top! Building the top of the media console consists of finishing the mitered frame as I will call it, and then attaching the plywood inside of the frame.

The front board of the top is already attached to the console, I suggest adding the sides next and then the back. All the top frame boards are mitered at 45 degrees off square, but you can still use pocket holes to attach them. Make sure when you are drilling your pocket holes that you can see where they will be drilled so you can make sure there will not be any unsightly holes on the edge of a board.

Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the side boards only, on both ends. Attach these with pocket holes to the front board, and then add the back. Flipping it over helps see where the pocket holes are the easiest and will hold your plywood in place as you attach it as well.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Make sure after you have attached the new frame boards to each other that you use the previously drilled pocket holes to attach it all to the cabinet as well!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Building the Doors of the DIY TV Stand

Alright, the doors are the hardest part of the build. They are not actually hard per se, more so, they require a few jigsaw/scroll saw cuts which if you have been here any length of time, you know I am not great at the small tedious stuff that requires skill!! LOL!!

This was the part when I started putting it all off because the cuts had to be precise and I am not good at precise, don’t be like me, putting it off does not make you any more precise! ๐Ÿ˜… Just get it over with, and worst-case scenario, the sooner you start, the sooner you can recut them if needed! (That was me talking to myself as well!๐Ÿค“)

Start off by cutting all your door boards to the same length. This is important so you may want to set up a stop block to make sure they are all exact! Each door will consist of:

1 – 2×6 @ 26 3/4″

1 – 1×12 @26 3/4″

1 – 1×4 @ 26 3/4″

They will be attached in that order! I used pocket holes drilled along both sides of the 1×12 to attach. Again, a 1x has an actual measurement of 3/4″ so pocket holes will be drilled at a depth of 3/4″ and attached with 1 1/4″ screws and wood glue.

Plans for DIY TV Stand - Media Console

The 1×12 is flush with the back of the 2×6, creating dimension between the 2×6 and the 1×12 on the front of the door…if that makes sense.

I also had to rip a 1/4″ off of the 1x4s to make the door 20″ wide. A 2×6 has an actual width of 5 1/2″ + the actual width of a 1×12 is 11 1/4″ + the actual width of a 1×4 is 3 1/2″ so that equals 20 1/4″ and we need our doors to be 20″ total! I actually even ended up having to shave a little more off of each one after making my dowel hinges because they moved the doors over slightly more than 1/8″, so you may want to go slightly over 1/4″ or you can do as I did and run them through the table saw after you have the dowel hokes drilled! Up to you!

After assembling the boards for the door, it’s time to add the 2x2s to the front. These have small notches taken out on one end. The notches are cut at 3/4″ x 3/4″. This will fit over the edge of the 2×6. I notched them using the scroll saw but you can use a jigsaw if you don’t have a scroll saw.

DIY TV Stand - Building the Doors

 

This photo above was taken before I rounded all the edges of the 2x2s with a sander.

Measure down 4″ from the top and 4″ up from the bottom, that is where you will set your 2x2s, make sure they are flush with the edge of the door.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

I measured on the back as well to make sure my screws go into the center of the 2×2.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console - Restoration Hardware Knockoff

I put ample wood glue on the 2x2s and clamped them in place where I wanted them, and picked up the door to screw them in from the back. Use flat headed screws though, I used Kreg Screws and the rounded head was keeping the doors from closing all the way! LoL! It’s ALWAY something I learn along the way that I shouldn’t have done! ๐Ÿ˜†

Use 2″ screws to attach.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Making Handles for the DIY TV Stand

The last thing to do before the doors are finished is turning a 2×3 into a handle! This was the trickiest part since it has to fit perfectly over the 2x2s we attached in the last step.

2x3s are an off the shelf lumber in hardware stores around me, but I know that they may not be as common in some areas. If that is the case, you can rip a 2×4 down to 2 1/2″. I actually ran the 2×3 through my table saw just to take the rounded edge off so it sat completely flat against the door!

Once you have the 2x3s cut down to 22 3/4″ and the rounded edge removed, if you prefer, then just set them on top of the 2x2s and mark where they need to be cut.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Cut them and glue and screw them from the back just as you did the 2x2s!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Dowel Hinges for DIY TV Stand

Now you need to attach the doors to the console, but I couldn’t find any store bought hinges that would work on a 2x board! ๐Ÿ˜ฌ Didn’t even think about that when I was planning the build of this TV stand! But luckily, I came up with an idea to make my own dowel and pipe hinges…and believe it or not, it worked! ๐Ÿ˜ต I made a separate post since it’s kind of a process and more than enough for a whole post of its own! See it here:

DIY DOWEL HINGES

Building the Interior of the DIY TV Stand to Fit Your Needs

Lastly, you need to deck out the inside to fit your needs! Are you a gamer or have gamers in the house, you can easily make sure that all the gaming equipment fits perfectly into the console. Are you a movie lover and buy all the DVDs and Blu Rays of your favorite movies, if so you can build the drawers like I did to easily find the movie you are looking for! Or do you just want some basic simple shelves to store stuff inside, you can make that work as well!

This is the REASON I DIY! I LOVE to be able to build to suit my needs! We needed a little room to store odd-sized gaming equipment, a record player and amp… and a lot of DVDs… this is what worked perfectly! You can customize this part to fit exactly what you want! If you happen to want yours just like mine, continue reading on to see how I did all the interior parts of the TV stand!

If you want just one shelf midway in the cabinet, it will simply be 2 pieces of plywood cut at 43 5/8″ and either pocket holed into place, or you can use 1x2s as I did to brace the shelves so you can easily change them if need be!

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

Building Out the Left Side of the DIY TV Stand

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Add the top shelf! Since it is the longest shelf you will need to add it to the media console before adding the doors or drawers!

The top shelf needs to be notched out of the front edges so that the doors can easily swing into this space when opening. They are notched 1″ inward and 4 1/2″ long.

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Using the 1x2s @ 15 3/4″ brace the shelf up on both sides with 1 1/4″ screws. You can glue the 1x2s if you would like, but I didn’t so I could move them if I ever wanted to change it up!

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

Next, you will build the drawer boxes! They are 36″ long by 15 3/4″ wide, they have to be this short to fit between the two open doors! And before you build yours, you will want to MAKE SURE AND MEASURE between your two open doors! Yes, that does mean that the doors should be in place, or at least holes drilled and tested to make sure of the space between them! Check top and bottom measurements as well, as one of my top dowels went in a little crooked and the bottom drawer had to be slightly smaller than 36″.

Take your piece of 1/2″x 36″x 15 3/4″ piece of plywood and attach 2 – 1/2″x 36″x 3 1/2″ and 2 – 1/2’x 14 3/4″x 3 1/2″ pieces to it with pocket holes drilled at 1/2″ depth and use 1″ screws! Make sure and USE WOOD GLUE or else your boxes can easily fall apart!

As you can see in the pic below, you will drill pocket holes along the edge of all the boards and on the two small (14 3/4″x 3 1/2″) will have holes drilled on both ends as well!

DIY TV Stand

Drawer slides are attached to the bottom of the drawers since they are set too far in to be side slides. I attached the slides to the bottom of the drawer first. By the way, I bought these drawer slides from D. Lawless Hardware and they are a fraction of the cost of the ones from the big box stores, but JUST AS AMAZING!

I used side mount drawer slides even though they have bottom mount! Lol!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand

The bottom drawer is just going to have drawer slides affixed to the bottom plywood of the cabinet.

Set the drawer in place, and then push down on the inside of the drawer to slide the drawer out without moving the whole slide, only slide it out a small way and climb over the drawer to attach screws! Then pull the drawer out furthur to place other screws!

DIY TV Stand - setting the drawer in place

DIY TV Stand - Attaching drawer slides to the DVD drawers

First drawer is IN!!! Pop open a cold drink and celebrate!!๐Ÿ˜

DIY TV Stand

The next drawer needs supports to attach the drawer slides to, so I added 2 – 1x5s to attach the slides to, you can use another size board if you can’t find 1x5s but I wouldn’t go with a smaller board, only larger. If you went with a smaller board, there wouldn’t be a place for more than 2 screws in the slides!

I attached the 1x5s the same way I did all the other shelves, just a 1×2 brace. I went ahead and put both of the sets of 1x5s in at this point because you can move them out of your way, but if you don’t put them in at this point you won’t have enough room to put them in!

The first set goes in at 7 1/4″ from the bottom of the cabinet, to the bottom of the 1×5. Second goes in at 15″ up from the bottom of the cabinet to the bottom of 1×5. (supports go below)

DIY TV Stand

Now all you have to do is build the other 2 drawer boxes and put them in! Keeping the back of the cabinet open is the only way to get the top drawer slides in! After it is all in and finished, then you can add the back…or not as I have yet to do!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Building Out the Right Side of the DIY TV Stand

DIY TV Stand - Media Console with Gaming storage

On to the shelves! Woot, Woot!

Now, just an FYI, the shelves must be in BEFORE the doors go on!

The top shelf is the exact same as on the left side. It is just set a little lower to allow for taller gaming consoles. It is set at 20″ up from the bottom of the cabinet.

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

DIY Gaming Media Console

On the right side, the same 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ support boards are used to support all shelves. You can choose whether or not you want to screw the shelf down to the support boards or not.

The next shelf is the verticle shelf to the left.

DIY TV Stand / Media Cabinet

Then the second horizontal shelf.

In this pic below. it does not show the notch cut, but it does NEED TO BE NOTCHED only on the right side but just like the top shelf! The notch will be 1″ inward and 4 1/2″ long. The door will not open if it is not notched!

DIY Media Cabinet - Tons of storage to house all things media and gaming!

Last but not least is the vertical divider!

DIY TV Stand

Boom! DONE! Fill it up with all the stuff that has been lying around for the last year…oh that’s just me?! My bad!๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ˜‚

DIY TV Stand - Media Console with Gaming storage

Now put doors on this side to COMPLETE your DIY media cabinet, gaming storage, tv stand, whatever you want to call it!! Or heck you can use it as a buffet, or any other table you need! Here’s the link to the DOWEL AND PIPE HINGES in case you missed it above!

And just like that, you made a beautiful piece of artwork that hides and organizes all of your tv watching and gaming needs!

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

I happen to LOVE it! It looks EVEN BETTER in real life, if that’s even possible!๐Ÿ˜Š

Well, I better get to work on all my fun fall projects I have planned over the next couple weeks! See you soon!

LOVE this post and want to share it with others? Thank you!

97 Shares
Pin97
Tweet
Share

Wanna PIN IT for later? Here you go! And thank you!๐Ÿ˜˜

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Filed Under: Furniture, Organization Tagged With: bedroom furniture, gaming storage, livingroom furniture, media storage

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

September 1, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Here it is! The post and plans you all have been waiting for…DIY Plans for Chicken Coop…okay, maybe I have just been waiting to share them! Lol! This set of plans has me so excited because it’s a big build but so rewarding! You may not realize that you need chickens in your life, but you do I swear!๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

I have a funny story for you all! Remember when I posted the plans for my small chicken coop? (DIY Small Chicken Coop if you haven’t seen it or want the whole story) Well, I tell the story of getting a rooster and how I had to quickly make a coop for him because he couldn’t be in with my hens… he was big and they were small! All that work and HE started laying eggs! ๐Ÿ˜‚ But that’s not even the best part, we don’t know if we mixed him up and he’s been living in the big coop with the ladies, or HE is actually a HEN!! ๐Ÿ˜… But either way, I promised plans for a large chicken coop…and here they are! I am beyond excited with how it turned out and how well it works for our chickens…and possibly rooster!๐Ÿ˜†

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Don’t mind that the coop is already dirty and large weeds are growing everywhere, it has been raining here, Hurricane Hanna hit south of us a little while back, so the rain was constant for what seemed like weeks, and then more rain came! Plus the chickens have been living in the coop for well over two months now!๐Ÿ˜ฒ And the hideous fence is coming out soon, but these things take time… so for a small while, I have to look at a couple of fence eyesores! Lol! Our whole yard, our house, the goat shed… everything is under construction!๐Ÿ˜† If only I could clone myself for free labor! Lol!

DIY plans for chicken coop

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

Y’all never in a million years could you have told me that I was going to have chickens and hug them and love them, would I ever believe you! ๐Ÿ˜‚ But I do!! They are hilarious and we LOVE them as a part of our family! I laugh when I think of this because they are chickens…CHICKENS, I never liked chickens, but now I’m in love, not just with them, but with their coop as well!๐Ÿ˜

DIY Chicken Coop

Free Ranging Chickens

DIY Chicken Coop Chickens Free Ranging

DIY Chicken Coop

Anyway, I could sit here and share 8000 pics of my ladies but I will stick to the plans…chicken coop plans that is! Lol!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

I am not going to lie, it was a trial and error, and oops, and dang it, all the time on this build! It was some of the dumbest things that I forgot to take into consideration! For instance, I was making the chicken coop plans for 8’x8′ to utilize the supplies, well in my haste to get started and get this baby built…because the chickens were living in MY HOUSE ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿ˜… I built all four walls at 8 foot long! *Forehead in palm!!!! Why?! Oy!

Plans for DIY Chicken Coop

But despite the setbacks and mistakes, I got it built and with minimal extra materials! So the plans will be exactly like as I built mine and if I get around to it, I’ll try to draw them up at the 8’x8′ if I have time later on! The dimensions are 8′ x 8′ 7″ for the main coop and the run is an additional 6’x16′ for a grand total of 8′ 7″ x 24′.

All in all, for materials I believe I spent around $1200-1300. Now it can be more or less depending on the cost of materials in your area. And I don’t even want to add in the gas, food, and Starbucks every other day when I made a material run because I forgot something! Lol!

There are ways to minimalize cost though, for instance, the roof rafters were cut at roughly 63″, I can easily get 8-foot boards into my van, but not 12 footers, if you can get 12-foot boards you will save 10 bucks just on the rafters. It seems small but then you look at all the trim boards as well, the vertical frame boards, and before you know it, boom it is a hundred dollar savings or more and I will take that ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!!๐ŸŽ‰ The materials list consists of 12-foot replacements where available but shows the number of 8-foot boards if you are like me and cannot easily carry 12-foot boards, or they don’t deliver to your area!

Alright, you ready to become a crazy chicken lady and build your very own chicken coop and love your chickens like family?๐Ÿ˜‚ Here are the plans!

DIY PLANS FOR CHICKEN COOP

I separated the plans up a bit because it is a lot for one file. The plans and tutorials for the other parts of the coop are below, but if you sign up for the email once you will receive all the files so you don’t have to enter your email 5 times! Lol!

Chicken Coop Run

Shutters

Nesting Box

Chicken Coop Dutch Door

Love these plans or know someone who would? I would LOVE for you to share or PIN for later!

7.3K Shares
Pin7.3K
Tweet
Share

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Materials for DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans

This material list only has the materials for the main coop, the run materials will be at the link above along with the plans for that, shutters the same, etc.

*Note: Amazon links below are affiliate links! Affiliate links work in that when you make a purchase after clicking on a link below, I make a small percentage of commission off of your purchase at no extra cost to you! It is a real win-win for us so I can keep this content coming for free! Thanks in advance! Also note, ONLY Amazon links are affiliate links, all other links are just provided to help you find products!

-23 – 2x4x8

-17 – 2x4x12 (or add 30 – 2x4x8s to the above number if you can’t get 12-foot boards in your car like me!๐Ÿ˜‰)

-2 – 2x4x10

-9 – 4×8 sheets of 1/2″ plywood

-3 – 3′ x 12′ sheets of steel roofing panels

-1 – 10′ steel roofing ridge

-1 – 1x6x8

-15 – 1x2x8 (I used furring strips)

-21 – 1x4x8 (I used furring strips)

-1 – bag of 1 1/2″ steel roofing screws with a neoprene washer

-1 – bag of 2 1/2″ steel roofing screws with gasket

-1 – box of 3 1/8″ screws

-1 – box of 2 1/2″ screws

-1 – large container of 2 1/2″ Kreg screws

– brad nails in sizes from 3/4″ to 2″ lengths

-12 – small Simpson Strong-tie roof brackets

-6 – large Simpson Strong-tie roof brackets

-1 – box of Simpson Strong-tie hex head screws for roof brackets

–100 ft roll of 1/2″ or 1/4″ hardware cloth- 36″x100′

–50 ft roll of 1/2″ or 1/4″ hardware cloth – 36″x50′

-5 gallons of paint of your choice (I used Behr Exterior paint, color-matched to SW Alabaster)

–5 cans Charcoal Gray spray paint for the roof

–Drill

–Miter Saw

–Circular Saw

–Kreg Jig

–Paint Sprayer

CUT LIST:

Run Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-6 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 55″ (header)

-4 – 2×4 @ 6 1/2″ (supports to attach run to)

Nestingย  Box Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-4 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 65″ (horizontal nesting box opening)

-2 – 2×4 @ 32″ (top studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 20″ (bottom studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 14″ (sides of box opening)

Door Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-4 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-1 – 2×4 @ 28″ (header)

-8 – 2×4 @ 13 1/4″ (supports to attach plywood)

Window Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-6 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 45″ (vertical window boards)

-2 – 2×4 @ 38 1/2″ (horizontal window boards)

-1 – 2×4 @ 10 1/2″ ( bottom stud)

Rafters:

-10 – 2×4 @ 63 1/8″ – mitered @ 25 degrees off square both ends, parallel

-2 – 2×4 @ 104″ – mitered @ 65 degrees off square both ends, not parallel

-24 – 2×4 @ 22 1/2″

Plywood for walls:

-5 -1/2″ sheets of plywood cut down to 71 1/2″ cutouts will be shown below, 4 sheets will stay 8′.

TRIM BOARDS: (You will want to measure your actual spaces to cut trim boards, they may differ from mine slightly!)

Run Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 16 43/64″ (bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×3 @ 3 1/2″ (bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 67 5/16″ (opening trim)

-1 – 1×4 @ 62 3/64″ (opening trim)

-1 – 1×3 (ripped down from a 1×4) @ย  (top horizontal trim)

-2 – 2×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

– 2 – 1×2 @ 68 1/2″ (battens)

Nesting Box Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 97″(top and bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 65 13/32″(vertical side trim)

-1 – 1×4 @ 68″(vertical board above nesting box)

-5 – 1×2 @ 25 35/64″ (battens on top of nesting box)

-5 – 1×2 @ 17 7/8″ (battens below nesting box)

Door Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 35 11/64″ (bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×3 (ripped a 1×4 furring strip down) @ 31 23/32″ (top straight horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 69 11/16″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest end (side vertical trim)

-2 – 2×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 69″ (door frame)

-2 – 1×2 @ 36″ (door frame)

-1 – 1×6 @ 35″ (door frame)

-1 – 1×3 @ 37″ (door frame)

-4 – 1×2 @ 67 5/16″ (bottom battens)

-2 – 1×2 @ 4 45/64″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest side (top battens)

-2 – 1×2 @ 11 63/64″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest side (top battens)

-2 – 1×2 @ 16 9/32″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest side (top battens)

Window Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 97″ (top and bottom horizontal trim)FYI – I did not purchase expensive 1x4x10s for these boards, I cut roughly 5 inches off of my 8ft 1×4 furring strip and cut a 6″ piece off of scrap board.

-2 – 1×4 @ 65 13/32″ (side vertical trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 45″ (window trim)

-1 – 1×4 @ 42 3/4″ (window trim)

-3 – 1×2 @ 43 3/4″ (window trim)

-1 – 1×6 @ 42 3/4″ (window trim)

-1 – 1×3 @ 44 3/4″ (window trim)

-3 – 1×2 @ 2 5/32″ (battens above window)

-3 – 1×2 @ 5 5/8″ (battens below window)

-2 – 1×2 @ 65 13/32″ (battens)

Building the DIY Chicken Coop

Just a little note for you all before we start building…I am NOT a professional construction worker, home builder, architect, or any other PROFESSIONAL of any sort! I am a mom who figures out ways to build what I want, consulting professionals at times, and making it up as I go along other times! ๐Ÿ˜ It all works out in the end even though it may not be considered the RIGHT way to do it! Lol! I’ve realized since starting this blog that pretty much EVERYONE has an opinion and they all differ on the CORRECT way to do something! But I am simply sharing the way I did this project and it may not be the BEST way, but it worked! Take that for what you will! ๐Ÿ˜…

Alright, if you are brave enough to continue on this project with me, let’s get started!๐Ÿ˜

Framing Out the DIY Chicken Coop

As with any structure we have to frame out the walls very first! All the walls are basically the same idea, a top and bottom plate, then 5 vertical studs arranged to support whatever openings you want! Some walls have a few extra boards to brace the openings for windows, nesting boxes, etc.

Framing the walls will take the 3 1/8″ screws listed in the materials. All boards will be screwed directly through the 2×4 plates and into the studs unless otherwise stated to drill pocket holes!

DIY Chicken Coop - Build Plans and tutorial

It is certainly helpful to have a second or third set of hands, even if they are kids! My boys helped a TON on this project, but walls can also be built by one person, as I built a couple on my own as well so don’t fret if you don’t have help, you can still build this chicken coop!

Building the Run Wall

This wall is a pretty simple build! I intentionally left this wall wide open to the run because it faces south for us, and that is where our breeze comes from all summer long! Heck in Texas it’s about 9 months out of our year and the ONLY way to survive is to have shade and breeze!

Basically, build an 8 foot by 6-foot rectangle and add studs where needed! It is easiest to add the studs at 19″ from the outside edge, then place the header boards in between. Screw the header boards to the side supports and put a couple of screws from the top 2×4 down into the header.

Adding the second support boards, closest to the edges after, allows the drill room to get in between to screw the header in…hope that makes sense. The second support boards will be placed 11″ from the outside edge.

DIY PLans for Chicken Coop - Large Chicken Coop

This creates your run wall, one down, three to go!

Building the Nesting Box Wall

The same concept as the run wall, build an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle. Add studs 14″ from the outside edge.

DIY Building a Chicken Coop

Build a box that is going to frame out the nesting box. Use 2- 2x4s @ 65″ to make the vertical boards of the box and 2 – 2x4s @ 14″ for the vertical. This photo also has the bottom studs added! They are 20″, 22″, and then 20″ apart. Or you can make them 21″ apart…not sure exactly how I ended up with the above! Lol!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans and build tutorial

Add the top studs. They are 32″ long and spaced the same as the bottom boards.

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Free Chicken Coop Plans and Build Tutorial

Nesting box wall…โœ”

Building the Door Wall

Again, start off with an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle. Add two studs 17 3/4″ from the outside edge. The second set of studs will be 32 1/2″ from the outside edge. A small header of a 2×4 @ 28″ in between the closest two studs, at the top, will be for the doorway! I added scrap 2x4s for hinges but ended up not using them! Lol!

Framing out the chicken coop walls

What you will need though that I didn’t realize until later, is 8 – 2x4s @ 13 1/4″ pocket holed, to allow a brace to attach the plywood to. Here’s the Sketchup photo to show you! (Ignore the 2×4 header that is turned the wrong way below, it should be flipped up to where you see the 1 1/2″ edge as in the photo above! Sorry for the confusion!)

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Door wall DONE! Can you believe it…3 walls down…only 1 to go! Yeah!

Building the Window Wall

The last wall to go, and then you can put them all together and start seeing the chicken coop come together!

Last time you have to build an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle! Lol! And for this wall, you will want to put 2 studs at 13 1/2″ from the outside edges, and then 2 studs at 25 3/4″ from the outside edges.

Build a rectangle for the window. Use 2 – 2x4s at 45″ to make the vertical window boards and 2 – 2x4s at 38 1/2″ to make the top and bottom of the window. Luckily you can screw these boards into place through the window!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans and tutorial

ALL FOUR WALLS ARE BUILT!! WOOHOO!!

If you have any questions as to the dimensions or locations of boards, make sure and download the printable plans to see detailed photos with dimensions!

Setting the Frame

At this point, before setting the walls, I sealed the bottom of all the 2x4s that would be touching the ground and attached hardware cloth with screws to the bottoms so that no animals could dig under the coop!

Here’s how she looked!๐Ÿ˜

Framing the DIY Large Chicken Coop

Now, we are doing the deep litter method, so there is no floor in the coop, the dirt makes the floor and you just add pine shavings weekly…it is AMAZING because there is no chicken poop smell at all! I did a lot of research before choosing this method and I am so glad I did! Plus, once a year, I have compost ready to be placed in the garden!

Literally, no cleaning the coop…we add pine shavings, and dust out the nesting boxes, THAT IS IT, and the ladies keep turning their poop into the dirt so you NEVER smell anything…besides dirt! Lol! Yes, there is a dust layer all over because of how they work the dirt, but that’s why we have great ventilation with the eaves, window, and open run wall! I COULD NOT BE HAPPIER that we went with this method!!

Anyway, back to setting the walls, I screwed the door wall to the window wall on the left, and nesting box wall on the right. That leaves the run wall attached to the window wall and nesting box wall on the backside!

***Make sure the walls are level on the ground…and each other before screwing them into place!***

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Maybe this will help you see the final outcome!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

One everything is level and screwed together, you can add the plywood to the walls.

Adding Plywood to the DIY Chicken Coop

You will want to measure all walls and openings prior to making any cuts in your plywood! The measurements given here are based on exact measurements, any small changes in measurements affect the measurements given below!

I attached plywood to the two sides that will remain 6ft. and then had to attach the roof rafters before adding plywood to the other two sides…measurements are based on doing it in this order.

Nesting Box Wall Plywood

Using 2 sheets of plywood that are cut down to 71 1/2″, make the nesting box cut out as shown below. (I altered the 72″ to 71 1/2″ to leave a gap between the edge of the plywood and the soil to keep it from resting on the dirt, which will make it rot faster!)

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Then using the same measurements cut another one opposite of the one above, or the same and flip it over! Lol!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans - Large Chicken Coop

 

Window Wall Plywood

Using 2 of the 1/2″ plywood sheets that are cut down to 71 1/2″, make the cutouts as shown below to accommodate the window opening! Again, you will cut two that are ultimately the same, just flipped opposite directions!

Plans for DIY Chicken Coop - Large size chicken coop with run

DIY Chicken Coop Plans for large chicken coop with run

DIY Plans For Chicken Coop

Building the Rafters for the DIY Chicken Coop

Time to add the rafters and REALLY make it look like a house of some sort!

You will make a total of five sets of rafters, 2 will have an extra board across the bottom of the rafter as seen below. I left the other 3 without this board so that the ceiling is open inside the coop and my hubby won’t hit his head! Lol! You can easily add a small brace towards the top if you’d like, but I found after the boards are added in between the rafters and all, there really wasn’t a need, they were pretty darn sturdy! We hung all over them and climbed on them and nothing was shifting whatsoever!

To build the three middle rafters, you will cut 2 boards at 63 1/8″ with both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel. Use pocket holes to attach the two boards together, drill pocket holes on one end of only one of the boards, holes will be drilled at 1 1/2″ deep and 2 1/2″ screws will be needed along with wood glue!

You can hardly see them, but the pocket holes are at the top on the left board!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

The bottom brace that will be on the end two rafters will be screwed in on the ends. This board will be cut at 104″ long with both ends mitered at 65 degrees off square, ends not parallel. It should be 6″ up from the end of the board it’s being attached to.

Plans for chicken coop - large chicken coop with free plans to build your own

DIY Chicken Coop

Now, I realize that typically, they notch the rafters to lay flat on the 2×4 of the wall, I tried and failed on two different 2x4s and gave up, found an option that was far easier for me, and rolled with it! Lol! I just attached the roof brackets directly to the 2x4s on both sides and it was sturdy enough…I mean crap, it has already survived a pretty good storm when hurricane Hanna came through! ๐Ÿ˜…

But before I get ahead of myself, let me show how I did a couple of things first! So to make cutting the plywood to fit over the rafters easier, I traced the rafter onto my plywood and cut it, before placing the rafters on the coop that way it wouldn’t be guessing at where to cut!

Make sure and measure up 71 1/2″ from the bottom and then lat your rafter there completely centered at the top. It will not reach the top completely! It’s okay, it will be covered by trim boards and no one will ever know! Lol!

DIY Chicken Coop Large

The photo above is for the door wall. I added another sheet of plywood that was going on the side and traced the rafter onto it as well. And because I made a mistake on one of my pieces of plywood, I had to piece together the door wall of the coop, you will have three solid pieces though!

This sounds a little confusing as I am trying to explain it, but it really isn’t…let me show you the photo of how the door wall plywood went on.

DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans

See how the pieces are pieced together. Your left side should look just like your right though, instead of two pieces patched together yours should be one! You will want to cut the door out before hanging the plywood as well!

Run wall plywood will look like this.

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

That is one 8ft sheet running longways. I cut it and attached it to the rafters before I put the rafter up to make it easier!

BACK TO THE RAFTER CONSTRUCTION!

So to make putting the rafters up easier, I attached the end rafters to another rafter while on the ground. You do not have the do them this way, it just helped us throw them up and attach them a lot quicker than if we had to add the middle boards while up on top of the coop. We only had to add the middle rafter, and that one took way longer! Lol!

So basically, I placed each end rafter down and attached the boards as below…use pocket holes drilled 1 1/2″ deep and use 2 1/2″ screws with wood glue to attach them to the boards. Place another rafter that is not an edge rafter (no bottom board) on top and pocket hole it into place! (Sorry I didn’t take the pic with the other rafter on, but the next pic shows it well enough I believe!)

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

Then attach the large rafter sections to the coop.

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Building of the chicken coop, attaching the roof rafters

Just FYI, we added another bracket on the outside of that 2×4 as well…2 on every rafter. In the middle of the left side of the photo, you can see the brackets I used on the end rafters, I placed three along the rafter.

Not to jump ahead of ourselves, but here’s a pic of the rafters with both brackets!

DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans

You can then add the next rafter, or I went ahead and attached the plywood to the door wall (the front) to stabilize the rafter as we placed the middle one! Plus the plywood was already cut so it was quick and easy to throw up there!

DIY chicken coop plans - free printable plans to build your own large chicken coop with run

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

Yes, I get dressed up to work! ๐Ÿ˜‚ Don’t mind me over here in my glasses and pajamas!๐Ÿ˜…

Alright, back up in the rafters, attach the middle braces and the middle rafter!

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

DIY Chicken Coop Plans - Large Chicken Coop

Ooh, la la!!

DIY Chicken coop - free plans to build your own

Time to layout and screw down the roofing panels! I of course have no pictures of us putting it on because it was windy as heck that day so it was all hands on deck…er roof! Lol!

I spray painted my galvanized steel roof panels because it was going to take 6 weeks to get the charcoal gray in since they aren’t carried in-store. Boooo! I didn’t want to wait but it ended up taking us that long to build it anyway! ๐Ÿ˜‚ I should have just ordered it, but I did save a few dollars (maybe 20 bucks) by painting it vs ordering it, so there’s that!

If you choose to spray paint yours, make sure to wipe the steel down with vinegar, clean it really well with the vinegar so that the spray paint will adhere well to the galvanized coating!๐Ÿ‘

Time to add the plywood to the last side that needs it! The run wall still needs its plywood! Using one of the sheets of plywood that you cut down to 71 1/2″, and cut it directly in half at 24″, so you end up with two 24″ x 71 1/2″ pieces!

Plans for CHicken Coop

Okay, now that all the plywood is on, time to trim out the entire thing! ๐Ÿ˜†

Trimming Out the DIY Chicken Coop

I am going to pretty much show the pictures of the trim and offer any helpful tips I may have, and you can download the plans if you want to see exact measurements!

Run Wall Trim

I attached the run to the wall before completing the trim work, you can do it whichever way you want, I just wanted to be able to trim around it without being perfectly precise in my measurements!

I framed around the opening of course and then added the run to complete the trim.

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

If you need the chicken coop run plans, get them here: DIY CHICKEN COOP RUN

After attaching the run, I added trim to cover any plywood seams!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

You can see the brackets we used to attach the run in the photo above as well! It is also screwed into the coop from the inside!

The final addition to the trim on the run wall that is not pictured, I added the battens to the top. They are mitered at 25 degrees off square on one end.

Plans for Chicken Coop

Nesting Box Wall Trim

The nesting box will need to be built in order to trim out this wall!

Get the nesting box plans here: DIY NESTING BOX

Well, guys, this is the extent of nesting box wall trim that I took! ๐Ÿ˜† Apparently it was getting dark and I was just trying to hurry up and finish! So, you will definitely want to check out the plans for this one!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

That gray bar is not supposed to be there…so don’t wonder which step you missed that told you to add that!๐Ÿ˜‚ It’s the top rail of the fence that we were taking out!

DIY Nesting Box for Chicken Coop

Door Wall Trim

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

Don’t mind that large gap at the top, those boards will be covered!

DIY Plans For Chicken Coop

DIY Plans for Large Chicken Coop

DIY Dutch Door for Chicken Coop

Window Wall Trim

Make sure and add the hardware cloth to the window before adding trim. You want the trim to not only hide the hardware cloth but keep it pinched between the plywood and trim!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

Don’t mind the caulk all over the wall…this particular area started cracking after the rain, so I thought I’d try a little caulk to seal it and cover it!๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ˜€DIY Chicken Coop PlansI did caulk all the horizontal boards to make sure water doesn’t seep behind them and cause the wood to rot!

Then I started painting baby!

Painting the DIY Chicken Coop

Using my Home Right sprayer, I was able to quickly spray the inside and outside of the chicken coop!

I LOVE this sprayer, I also have the older model but for this particular project, I suggest this one because it has three different tip sizes that allow you to use the largest one and spray really fast! I am talking 3 minutes max for an entire wall!๐Ÿ˜ต

DIY Painting of the Chicken Coop

That’s not actually a video! Lol! Only a screenshot from the video because it was on my phone and too big of a file to send and I haven’t had the time to download it to my computer! Sorry folks!

After spraying it inside and out, I just had to build and hang the DOOR and SHUTTERS to complete the building process!

The last thing I did before allowing the ladies to move in was adding hardware cloth to the eves to keep coons and other sly little critters out!๐Ÿญ๐Ÿ Using screws with a wafer head, I was able to just screw the hardware cloth to the frame and 2×4 on the rafters!

DIY PLans for chicken Coop

From the outside, you can’t even see the hardware cloth! It’s perfect! And DONE!

DIY Farmhouse Chicken Coop

I’m beyond excited to share these plans with you all, and would love for you to share them with your friends!

7.3K Shares
Pin7.3K
Tweet
Share

Thanks for stopping by! Hope to see you again soon!

Wanna save it for later? PIN IT now!

DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans - Coop has run and nesting boxes

DIY PLans for Chicken Coop

Filed Under: Furniture, Homesteading, How To, Outdoor, PDF plans Tagged With: backyard chickens, chicken coop, shed, tiny house

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet – Kitchen Renovation

January 25, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Hola peeps! This week I am sharing my FAVORITE project in my kitchen renovation…my DIY coffee bar cabinet! I mean, let’s face it, this is the place that the magic happens! Lol! Coffee is life for me! ๐Ÿ˜‚ It’s really more than just a coffee bar, it houses our 5-gallon water jug…which is used to make coffee…and a small fridge…to house creamer…and drawers…to hold my K-cups! Okay, okay, it could be a drink station, then you could use it for beer, wine, sodas…whatever would make you happy, I just use it for coffee!๐Ÿ˜

DIY Coffee Bar - Drink Station

(Don’t mind where my hubby taped and floated behind those little cubbies and I didn’t texture and paint!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ)

I built this to my needs and you can always alter the plans to fit your custom needs, I say it all the time, and I will say it again…that is why I DIY! I love building exactly what I want to serve my purpose best! And you can too!

DIY Coffee Bar view from further back

So I built it to match all the other cabinetry in the kitchen! It has the same MDF on the sides, the same baseboards I placed on the island and peninsula, and I routed the drawer edges to match the other drawers in the kitchen! I think it turned out great and serves my needs perfectly!

Want to see all the other DIY posts we did on the kitchen renovation?

KITCHEN RENOVATION

DIY Coffee Bar - Kitchen Renovation

I love the warmth that the wood countertop adds to pull the shelves together on the opposite wall! And the hexagon tiles above, match the Gauntlet Gray of the island and vent hood perfectly! It could not have worked out better if I tried! Lol, don’t let me fool you, I did try…it took me forever to get the plan finalized and find everything that I wanted, for a price I was willing to pay!๐Ÿ˜†

Anyway, enough about me and this beautiful DIY coffee bar, let me show you how to build one!

Don’t have time to build it now? PIN IT for later!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - Beverage Bar

In an effort to keep my plans FREE, I have recently started asking for your email in exchange for the printable plans! I will never share your information and I will never send you spam…plus you can unsubscribe at any time!

 The link for printable plans will be here soon! DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet Plans.

Materials: DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

1 – 4×8 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

1 – 2×4 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

1 – 4×8 sheet of 1/4″ plywood (drawer bottoms and back of the cabinet)

1 – 4×4 sheet of 1/2″ plywood (drawer boxes)

1 – 2×4 piece of 1/2″ MDF (side molding)

2 – 1x2x8 (front face frame)

1 – 1x2x10 (front face frame)

1 – 1x4x8 (front face frame)

1 – 1x10x8 (drawer fronts)

1 – 8 ft stick of baseboard of your choice

2 – 2x2x8 (I used furring strips to keep costs down, and they are in the back where they will not be seen)

1 – 2x4x10 (extra support in the back)

4 – 2x6x8 (top)

– 2 sets of 16″ drawer slides

–2 drawer pulls

–miter saw

–wood glue

–Kreg jig

–pocket hole screws 1″, 1 1/4″, and 2 1/2″

–right angle drill attachment

Cut List:

-2 – 3/4″ plywood pieces cut @ 17 1/4″ x 34 1/2″ (sides)

-1 – 3/4″ plywood piece cut @ 17 1/4″ x 56″ (bottom)

-2 – 3/4″ plywood pieces cut @ 15 3/4″ x 28 1/4″ (dividers)

-2 – 3/4″ plywood pieces cut @ 15 3/4″ x 20 1/4″ (shelves)

-2 – 2×4 @ 56″

-1 – 1×2 @ 56″

-2 – 2×2 @ 15″

-2 – 2×2 @ 24 3/4″

-2 – 2×2 @ 20″

-2 – 1/2″ MDF @ 3 1/2″ x 17 1/4″ (side molding)

-1 – 1/2″ MDF @ 2 1/4″ x 24 3/4″ (side molding)

-1 – 1/2″ MDF @ 3″ x 24 3/4″ (side molding)

-1 – 1×2 @ 58 1/2″ (face frame top)

-4 – 1×2 @ 26 1/2″ (face frame vertical)

-2 – 1×2 @ 19 1/4″ (face frame shelves)

-1 – 1×3 @ 19 1/4″ (face frame drawer divider)

-1 – 1×4 @ 58 1/2″ (face frame bottom)

-2 – scrap 1/2″ MDF pieces (can be any width that will fit below the side molding) @ 17 1/4″

-1 – 1×2 @ 58 1/2″ (bottom support to attach baseboard to)

-4 – 2×6 @ 60″ (top)

**Make sure and measure your cabinet for your baseboards as they will probably be slightly different from the measurements below.

-2 – 2 baseboards cut @ 18  5/8″ beveled on one end at 45 degrees off square (sides)

-1 – baseboard cut @ 59 49/64″ beveled on both ends at 45 degrees off square (front)

-4 – 1/2″ plywood pieces cut @ 17″ (drawer boxes sides)

-4 – 1/2″ plywood pieces cut @ 17 3/8″ (drawer boxes front and back)

-2 – 1/4″ plywood pieces cut @ 17″ x 18 3/8″ (drawer bottoms)

-2 – 1×10 @ 20 5/8″(drawer fronts)

-1 – 1/4″ plywood piece @ 56 1/2″ x 25 1/2″ (back)

Building the DIY Coffee Bar

Okay, I did a horrible job of taking pictures of this coffee bar as I built it, so I will improvise with Sketchup pics where I don’t have actual pics to show you a step! You can still download the full printable plans above!

NOTE: All joints on this project will need to be GLUED as well as pocket holed! Just know, I will not state it in EVERY step but you will need to GLUE in every step unless I state otherwise!

Step 1

Cut your side plywood pieces (3/4″ x 17 1/4 x 34 1/2″). Attach the bottom board inside the two side boards, up 5 1/2″ from the ground. Drill pocket holes at 3/4″ deep (since the plywood is 3/4″) and then attach with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.DIY Coffe Bar Cabinet I like to use a scrap piece of wood cut to the height I am attaching the bottom board, to make sure it is attached at the same height on both sides. This board gives me a brace to press the board against to make sure it is at the exact level it should be!

DIY Coffee Bar - Building the coffee bar

Make sure and drill pocket holes along the top of the side boards as well to use later to attach the top!

DIY Coffee Bar - Building the box of the cabinet

Step 2

Add the 2×4 brace to the top back and the 1×2 to the top front. You could also you a 2×2 here is you would rather, I felt a 1×2 was sufficient since I was gluing another 1×2 to this one as a face frame board.

The back 2×4 will have pocket holes drilled at 1 1/2″ (since a 2×4 board is actually 1 1/2″ thick) and you will use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach, making sure to use adequate wood glue as well. The 1×2 will have pocket holes drilled at 3/4″ deep (since a 1×2 is actually 3/4″ thick) and you will use 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws to attach!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

DIY coffee bar

(this was the only picture I took of this step๐Ÿ˜† but it helps to show the pocket holes so I shared it)

NOTE: If your 1×2 is actual width 1 3/4″ (one store I buy them at they are 1 1/2″ and Home Depot they are 1 3/4″ so measure yours) you will have to notch out your plywood, so I would rip it down to 1 1/2″ before attaching it! I didn’t pay attention to this when I was building mine and had to notch out my plywood which isn’t that big of a deal, but I feel it is important to mention!

Step 3

Add an additional 2×4 below the bottom shelf of the coffee bar cabinet. Added support, it may be overkill but I’d much rather that than have it fall apart later! Lol! Again since it is a 2×4 drill the pocket holes at 1 1/2″ deep and use 2 1/2″ screws to attach.

DIY Coffee Bar

Step 4

Add a brace in the middle to keep the bottom shelf from sagging! Attach using pocket holes drilled at 3/4″ deep and 1 1/4″ screws!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

Step 5

Add 2×2 supports along the top! Drill pocket holes at 1 1/2″ deep and use 2 1/2″ screws to attach. You may also want to drill 2-3 pocket holes along one long side of each 2×2 to use later to attach your top. Drilling them along the side that faces the 13″ opening will help you not need to use a right angle drill, although you will still need one for the far sides.

DIY Coffee Bar - building the frame of the cabinet

Step 6

Add 2x2s to the back of the frame! Your plywood shelves and dividers will be able to be pocket holed into these 2x2s to make them sturdy! Drill the pocket holes at 1 1/2″ deep and use 2 1/2″ screws to attach!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

Step 7

Add your plywood dividers! The pocket holes will be drilled at 3/4″ and 1 1/4″ screws will be used to attach.

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - kitchen renovation

Step 8

Add the shelves. Again, the pocket holes will be drilled along the back and sides at 3/4″ and 1 1/4″ screws will be used to attach.

DIY Coffee bar cabinet

Step 9

Add the side MDF molding! This came from a sheet of MDF, so I was able to rip boards to the small sizes I needed. I was able to adjust the size when needed, such as I ripped the board to 2 1/4″ where it was meeting up with the face frame board, so it would look like it was the same size as the back board that I cut at 3″. Hope that makes sense.

Also, the picture doesn’t show, but the top board is also ripped at 3 1/2″.

DIY Drink Station / Coffee bar - adding the molding to the cabinet

Step 10

Add the face frame. This can be built as one solid piece (pocket holing it all together)  and then brad nailed on, or you can individually brad nail the boards on. I just brad nailed those babies up there! Make sure and use glue either way!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - adding the face framing

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

Step 11

Add the scrap boards to the bottom! They do not have to be any specific width, just as long as the side ones are 1/2″ MDF cut at 17 1/4″ and the front one is a 1x board cut at 58 1/2″ (in the materials list, there is a 1×2 for this) but you can use any scrap boards you have that will fit there, just to give you something to brad nail your baseboard to!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

Step 12

Next step, add the baseboards. The side baseboards will be beveled on one end at 45 degrees off square and the front baseboard will be beveled on both ends at 45 degrees off square! The measurements below are if your cabinet is built exactly as this one was, ALWAYS measure your cabinet so that the baseboards will fit well!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet

Building the top of the DIY coffee bar cabinet.

I cut the rounded edges of 2x6s off with my table saw and that cut them down to 4 3/4″. I then planked them together with pocket holes (drilled at 1 1/2″ deep and 2 1/2″ screws). The pocket holes will be drilled along the long edge of the boards to plank them.

If you are worried about wood movement and using pocket holes, you can just use wood glue and clamps to glue it up!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - building the countertop

Sand and stain countertop the color of your choice! I used Old Barn Milk Paint Stain in Weathered for mine! It is my FAVORITE stain right now, I cannot get enough of it! Lol! It is natural and non-toxic… with a built-in sealer! What more could you ask for? I did still add a couple of coats of water-based poly though just to be safe…I spill a lot of coffee!๐Ÿ™ƒ

Using the pocket holes you drilled earlier into your plywood and 2x2s, you will connect the top to the cabinet. You will need a right-angle attachment for your drill, and the short square bit to have enough room. If you cannot get a drill in there, you can also just liquid nail it if you would like.

Building the drawers for the DIY coffee bar cabinet

Using the 1/2″ plywood, build drawer boxes! You will use holes drilled with your Kreg Jig at 1/2″ and you will use 1″ screws along with glue to attach!

**Your drawer boxes may be a different size than mine based off of your cabinet and your drawer slides! Make sure and measure before building the drawer boxes so you know they will fit!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - Drink Station

Using 1/4″ plywood, cut it to the same size as your box, attach the bottom with wood glue and brad nails!

DIY Coffee Bar / Drink Station

You could also route out the bottom of the drawer box so that the 1/4″ plywood would be flush with the 1/2″ plywood, but I wanted to keep it easy! Lol!

Add your drawer fronts.

DIY COFFEE BAR CABINET

The overhang shown in the photo above is on the sides.

Add scrap pieces of wood to bring a level surface from the face frame to the rest of the cabinet. This will allow the drawer slides to pull out. Otherwise, your drawer slide would hit the face frame! This can be any wood you want to use, but you will need to measure your space to see what exact width you will need to cut them at!

DIY Drink Station

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - Kitchen renovation

The drawer front size is shown in the photo below! You can wait until after you have installed the drawer boxes and drawer slides if you would like, to attach the fronts. That is my favorite method, just in case my drawer slides are not completely level or something.

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - adding the drawer fronts to the drawers

Attach the drawer slides and slide them drawers in!

DIY coffee bar cabinet - drink station

Last but not least, add the 1/4″ plywood to the back of the coffee bar cabinet. Make sure and cut a small hole in the plywood if you plan on plugging in a refrigerator. If your fridge is a back vent fridge, you will need to leave that whole side backless and you may want to supply ventilation through the wall. Ours has a hole in the sheetrock into a closet that is behind it. They do make front vent fridges though.

DIY Coffee station

Boom shocka-locka! It’s finito! And it looks so good!

DIY Coffee Bar - Drink station

Isn’t she lovely?๐ŸŽถ Isn’t she beautiful?๐ŸŽถ I don’t even know if that’s the words to the song, but it works for me!๐Ÿ˜€

Want to make her even more beautiful? Add some hardware to those drawers! I used this particular hardware from EBAY, y’all JennaSue told me about these drawer pulls and I could not have been more ecstatic when I got them in, for the price I was SHOCKED at the quality! I will never but from anywhere else again! Lol, okay I may have to buy from other places from time to time, but I will always check them out first!

DIY Coffee Bar - Kitchen Renovation

Well, I think that pretty much sums it all up! Lol! If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them below! ๐Ÿ˜Š

Know someone else who may want to build a coffee bar cabinet? SHARE IT!

1.1K Shares
Pin1.1K
Tweet
Share

Happy Building!

Make sure and PIN this for later!

DIY Coffee Bar Cabinet - Beverage Bar

Filed Under: Furniture, Remodeling Tagged With: bar, coffee station, drink station, kitchen reno

DIY Record Storage Case

January 16, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Happy New Year! Woot, woot! Hope you all had the best holidays with your family and friends! I’m here today to share with you all the DIY record storage case that I made for my son! Y’all he is 14 and a boy after my heart with his old soul! I LOVE vinyl records and record players, they remind me of my dad when we were really little, and now my son has taken a liking to them! I couldn’t be more excited!

DIY Record Storage Case

[Read more…] about DIY Record Storage Case

Filed Under: Furniture, Crafts, Gift Ideas, PDF plans Tagged With: record holder, storage case, storage trunk, viynl record storage

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

December 13, 2019 by Cara 1 Comment

Project number 4 is here! This is one of my favorite projects out of my 25 days of a DIY Christmas! My boys have been wanting me to make this DIY dartboard cabinet forever and ever! Well, here they go, an early Christmas present! Lol!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

 

The best part is, I didn’t have to make the dartboard, just the cabinet, so you can throw it together in a couple of hours! What a GREAT gift idea, ready in a couple of hours! Sweeeeetttt!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Want to see the other projects I’ve posted for the 25 Days of a DIY Christmas?

Let’s not waste any time getting started, if you are like me you are already a little behind so we don’t have much time…Christmas is in less than 2 weeks! What?! Yea, we better get ON IT, let’s go!

Don’t have time to build this now? PIN IT for later!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

**AMAZON links below are AFFILIATE LINKS (all other links are not but I include them anyway to help you find the same items I used ????). Affiliate links are links that pay me a small percentage if you make a purchase, at no extra cost to you! I always appreciate your support by purchasing through the links, this helps me keep my content come at ya free of charge!

Materials:

–18″ dartboard

-1 – 1x4x8

-1 – 1x6x6 or a scrap piece of 1×6 ( you will only need 26 1/2″)

-1 – 1x2x6 or 2 scrap pieces of 1×2 ( you will only need 2 – 8″ pieces)

– 1 – 1/2″ 2’x4′ sheet of plywood

-12 ft of 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ lattice (from the molding section)

–2 knobs

–4 small hinges

–double magnetic latch

–chalkboard paint

–Kreg jig

–1″ Kreg screws

–brad nailer

–drill

–1/8″ drill bit

–wood glue

–saw

–white paint marker

Cut List:

-1 – 1/2″ piece of plywood @ 23″ x 23″ (back)

-2 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood @ 11 5/16″ x 22 7/8″(doors)

-2 – 1×4 @ 24 1/2″(frame)

-2 – 1×4 @ 23″ (frame)

-1 – 1×6 @ 26 1/2″ (top)

-4 – 1/4″ lattice strips @ 19 7/8″ (door molding)

-4 – 1/4″ lattice strips @ 11 5/16″ (door molding)

-2 – 1×2 @ 8″ (dart holders)

Building the DIY Dartboard Cabinet

To start I ripped down my plywood to 23″x 23″ so that I could get by with using one 1×4 instead of needing two! If you don’t have a table saw to rip the plywood you can use a clamp and a board as a guide, or the Kreg Rip-cut works really well! Or have Home Depot or Lowe’s do it for you when you purchase your plywood, just know that they won’t be the prettiest cuts!????

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Next, cut the frame boards. To attach the frame boards, you will need to drill pocket holes in the back plywood. If you don’t have a Kreg jig, you could get by with using a brad nailer and wood glue, it is just really hard to shoot brad nails into 1/2″ plywood without any of them getting wonky and blowing out the side!

Using your Kreg jig, set your jig to 1/2″, then set your drill bit to 1/2″ and clamp your board into place. (sorry the pics are blurry, they are from the video)

Setting your kreg jig

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - setting the Kreg Jig

Drilling pocket holes with the Kreg Jig

Drill holes all around your plywood.

Pocket hole placement on the DIY dartboard cabinet

Using wood glue and 1″ pocket hole screws, attach the frame boards to the plywood.

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - attaching the frame

Glueing the frame on the DIY dartboard cabinet

Flip it over and brad nail the side so they don’t lean inward.

I love how that was JUST cut off from the frame of the camera! ???? Hopefully, you can still figure out what I am doing!

Add the 1×6 (ripped down to 4″) to the top of the frame. Center it, then use glue and brad nails to attach it!

Next, cut your lattice strips for the doors. Attach them with wood glue and 5/8″ brad nails. Make sure the depth of your brad nails is just right so they don’t come out on the other side!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - framing the doors with molding

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Once the doors are framed out on the front, you can dress them up on the back! To make your dart holders, you will need to drill holes in the center of your 1×2 at 2″, 4″, and 6″. They will be drilled into the 3/4″ side of the 1×2.

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - drilling thr holes for the darts

Then glue the 1x2s onto the backside of one of the doors. Make sure to center them on the door.

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - gluing the dart holders to the door

Paint or stain your pieces at this point!

Then, using painter’s tape, tape off a section of the door that you did not place your dart holders on, and paint it with chalkboard paint. This will be your scorekeeper.

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - painting the chalkboard scorekeeper

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - painting the scorekeeper

Attach the doors to the frame with your small hinges. I used them flat since that is the simplest way you can use hinges! Lol! Also because it gives it a little character if you ask me! (no photo, sorry…my hubby did this for me while I was sleeping)

Attach the magnetic latch so that it will hold the doors steady while you drill your holes for your knobs! I just used a screwdriver for this part…and I had help from the best helper! Lol!

Adding the magnetic latch for the diy dartboard cabinet

Measure and drill your holes to attach your knobs!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet - adding the knobs

I like to use the yellow painter’s tape for marking and then drilling holes because I can see through it to see my mark! And yes, I COULD just mark on the tape but I NEVER remember to put the tape down first, and then I don’t want to go back and measure again! This is what works best for me!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Screw the knobs into place!DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Hang that sucker on the wall! I just screwed it into the studs from the front side before hanging the dartboard inside. Don’t mind that this is an incredibly blurry picture my little one took for me! ???? You can see the two black spots, those are the screws into the studs! You could use a hangman if you are giving it as a gift!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Then I put a screw to hang the dartboard inside the cabinet, that way we can change out the dartboard once it has too many holes!

And that is all there is to it! It is finito! ????

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Love this project and think your friends or family would like it too? I would love for you to share it with them!

257 Shares
Pin257
Tweet
Share

I better get busy, I have sooooo many more projects to bring you before Christmas! Happy Building!

Wanna save this awesome project for later? PIN IT!

DIY Dartboard Cabinet

Filed Under: Crafts, Furniture, Gift Ideas, Holidays, Wall Decor Tagged With: game room, games, kids gifts, wall games

DIY Firewood Holder

November 25, 2019 by Cara 1 Comment

Hey there! I’m back for another DIY Challenge this month with all my friends! This month Katie challenged us to come up with a project that combined two different mediums! I chose wood and metal to make my DIY firewood holder, just in time for those cold nights by the fire! Okay, my fireplace is fake but I still love the look of the logs by the fireplace!๐Ÿ˜Š

DIY Firewood Holder

You MUST check out the other projects from the other bloggers! I am not kidding, they shock me each month with their amazing creativeness! Head to the end of the tutorial to click their links and head to their blogs!

DIY Log Holder

I have to tell you a funny story about this log holder! If you ever thought that DIYers just come up with ideas and throw them together and life is all good…you need to know that is NOT at all how my life goes! LOL!

DIY Indoor Firewood Holder

I went to get my supplies from Home Depot for my first idea, they were out of the steel rod that their website claimed they had 5 of, seriously Home Depot…we can’t even be friends if you are going to lie to me like that!๐Ÿ˜† While standing in the aisles I had to quickly come up with another idea. I struggled for a while, no ideas coming to me AT ALL… all the while my kids becoming highly agitated with me that we weren’t leaving already! Lol!

So, hours later it seemed, I excitedly shout, I’ve got it! New idea on deck, I only need some 1/2″ plywood and we are good to go!

I grab the plywood and head home, mind you, I had already picked up Kreg screws for my other idea in 3 sizes! I get home and low and behold, I forgot the 1″ screws that you need when you are using 1/2″ plywood!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜ต๐Ÿ™ˆ Home Depot is a good drive from my house, 30-45 minutes one way.๐Ÿ˜ฌ

I decide I don’t have time to drive back I just have to be resourceful and come up with another idea, it’s a log holder, they can be a myriad of styles. I go out into my garage and start looking around, I see some hairpin legs that I ordered FOREVER ago and I honestly don’t even know what I was going to use them on…it had been that long ago! They are fair game, I can order more IF I remember what I was going to use them for!

I quickly whip up my latest idea, this is idea number 3 by this point just in case you lost count, all in less than 24 hours! ๐Ÿ˜… I flip it over to put the hairpin legs on, flip it back over to reveal…yuck, that is not cute! ๐Ÿ™„ I place it on the fireplace…nope, I DON’T like it!

Holy shizzle, what am I going to do now? After staring at it for what seems like an eternity, I decided that I may like it IF it was slightly shorter so that the legs looked more in proportion! Glue is set at this point, so I have to take it to the table saw and cut it down!

I can’t mess this up though because this is all the 2x2s that I have! Luckily I found two scraps just big enough to replace the top boards!

After cutting it down, I didn’t realize that the pocket holes have been cut off and new ones may or may not be able to be drilled in their place. I opt to just glue it and clamp it for a few hours! It works! But the moment of truth is still to come…will I like it? I put the legs on AGAIN, flip it over…and wait for it…YESSSSS I like it!! Crisis averted!๐Ÿ˜…

Now you know that DIY is NOT always easy, sometimes it is but sometimes it isn’t! And that’s okay, we learn from all of the mistakes and become better problem solvers because of it…and we learn what our tools may or may not be capable of when we go against the manufacturers suggested uses! LOL! Kidding, don’t try that at home!

Okay, okay, enough about my crappy day! Lol! Let’s get straight to the plans on this cutie, I can call it that NOW!๐Ÿ˜

Building the DIY Firewood Holder

Indoor Firewood log holder

Materials List:

2 – 2x2x8

1 – 2’x2′ piece of 3/4″ plywood – or a scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood (15 3/4″ X 10 3/4″)

4 – 6″ hairpin legs

Kreg Jig

2 1/2″ Pocket hole screws

1 1/2″ pocket hole screws

wood glue

1 1/4″ screws to attach legs – My favorite screws when I am not using pocket holes, they are wafer head and they work flawlessly without predrilling holes!????

Sandpaper and paint of your choice

Cut List:

4 – 2×2 @ 18 3/4″

4 – 2×2 @ 18″

2 – 2×2 @ 10 3/4″

3/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 10 3/4″

Building this is super easy! It was built in less than an hour…before I had to fix it! Lol! So it should only take you an hour or so since I gave you the good cut list! ๐Ÿ˜‰

Wouldn’t this be a cute gift to give someone?

Back to building the firewood holder!

Start by cutting your plywood down to size and drilling pocket holes 3/4″ deep along all the sides of it. Normally when you are attaching 3/4″ material to other 3/4″ material, you would use a 1 1/4″ screw, but since we are going into 2x2s we can go with a longer screw. I used 1 1/2″ screws to attach, with tons of wood glue!

Make sure and drill your 1 1/2″ holes into your 2x2s @ 10 3/4″ before you attach them to the plywood.

DIY Firewood Holder

Next, add your 2×2 @ 18 3/4″. Again, make sure and use ample glue.

DIY Firewood Holder - building the base

Don’t mind the skittle that somehow was smashed on my 2×2!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ

Add the upright ‘legs’ to the base you just built. They will need 1 1/2″ pocket holes drilled in both ends. Attach with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. I used clamps to help keep them in place while screwing them in! I used the clamps that I put on my stocking stuffer list last week…they are awesome clamps and I cannot believe it took me so long to grab them!

DIY Firewood Holder - Adding the upright legs

Flip it on its side and make sure that you pick which way you want the ‘back’ to be so you can hide the pocket holes to the back.

DIY Firewood Holder - Adding the upright legs

Add the top 2x2s @ 18 3/4″ using 2 1/2″ screws and wood glue!

Back view!

Now, this is the tall version, yours will be shorter than this as mine is now! Lol!

Here’s me trying it out by the fireplace…and hating it! Lol! I had already taken the legs off and it was still this tall.

DIY Firewood Holder

Sand and stain/paint it however you would like! I used Rustoleum Flat Black on mine!

Add the hairpin legs with 1 1/4″ screws, flip it over, and BOOM! DONE! Fill it with logs!

DIY Firewood Holder

I happen to adore it now and am so happy I didn’t give up on building it…I was tempted several times!๐Ÿ˜…

DIY Firewood Log Holder

Notice how I FINALLY moved the marble that was in almost all of the photos! ???? Now you can go play where’s the marble if you hadn’t noticed! Lol!

DIY Challenge Participants

Now you MUST go check out everyone else’s projects!

Katie – Addicted 2 DIY – DIY Fireplace

Anika – Anika’s DIY Life – Upholstered Bench

Gail – My Repurposed Life – Antique Sewing Machine Table

Sadie – The Awesome Orange – Burnt Live Edge Clock

Mindi – My Love 2 Create – Wood and Acrylic Floating Picture

Sarah – Ugly Duckling DIY – Wood and Leather Ornaments

 

I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Happy Building!

Enjoy this and want to save it for later?! Pin it now!

DIY Firewood Holder

DIY Modern Farmhouse Indoor Firewood Holder

DIY Indoor Firewood Holder

 

Filed Under: Crafts, Furniture, Organization Tagged With: fireplace, hairpin legs, modern log holder, storage

  • Go to page 1
  • Go to page 2
  • Go to page 3
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Go to page 8
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

Connect with me!

  • Email
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Search

Welcome

Hey there! Welcome to the place I share all my diy adventures in hopes of inspiring you to pick up a hammer or drill and get to work building, crafting or renovating your dreams! I will show you step by step instructions on every project to help you see how easy it can be! I’m so glad to have you here! Look around, hopefully you will enjoy what you see!

New Posts Sent Straight to Your Inbox!

Sign up to receive new posts directly in your inbox! Don't miss a single post or FREE plans!

Please wait...

Thank you for signing up! Can't wait to keep in touch!

Recent Posts

  • DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Rings
  • DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers
  • DIY Hinges Made From Dowel and Pipe
  • DIY TV Stand / Media Console
  • DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

Latest Pins

  • Whether you are serving wine at a holiday gathering, your wedding or just every night when you watch Netflix, this DIY Wine Dispenser is the perfect way to dispense boxed wine but make it look great! No one will even care that it was out of a box! The modern design can lend itself to any decor style. Perfect for giving as a gift to all the wine lovers in your life! #boxedwine #winestorageideas #winerack #winedispenser #giftforwinelover via @theinspiredworkshop
  • This beautiful DIY media console is not only GORGEOUS, but it has a well thought out interior to house all your tv watching and video gaming needs! There are DVD and game drawers, shelves that are perfectly spaced to hold gaming consoles of all sizes, and plenty of space for all the accessories such as headphones, controllers and even an amp! Don't need gaming storage, change the drawers to shelves and use it as a buffet in the dinning room! The beauty of this media cabi via @theinspiredworkshop
  • DIY Outdoor Planter made with scrap wood. #diyoutdoor #diyoutdoorprojects #diyplanters #scrapwood #diyprojects #diyideas #diyinspiration #diycrafts #diytutorial #diy
  • Pour in Place Concrete Countertops - Diy tutorial shows you how to pour  your own white or gray concrete countertops! Filled with helpful video snippets of what to expect when working with concrete for countertops! #diykitchenrenovation #diyconcretecountertops #concretecountertops
Follow Me on Pinterest

I have been featured at

Archives

Copyright

It makes me happy when we all share… but please keep in mind that all images & text on this site are property of The Inspired Workshop. I love seeing my photos on other websites, just as long as there are no more than two per post, and they are linked back to my site! Please do not remove any watermarks, crop or edit any photos, or copy text off of this site without obtaining written permission from me first! Pinning is always welcome and appreciated! Thanks!

SiteLock

Popular Posts

DIY Scrap Wood Outdoor PlanterDIY Scrap Wood Outdoor Planter
DIY Ring Toss GameDIY Ring Toss Game
DIY Concrete Countertops – Pour in PlaceDIY Concrete Countertops – Pour in Place
DIY Dog Bed – Pottery Barn KnockoffDIY Dog Bed – Pottery Barn Knockoff
DIY Vent Hood Plans and Kitchen UpdateDIY Vent Hood Plans and Kitchen Update

Footer

Privacy Policy

Rest assured that The Inspired Workshop will never sell or distribute your name or email address! Please be aware though that we do offer advertisements and in order to place relevant ads for your viewing, tracking cookies are used. Tracking cookies are small text files that are stored on your computer, which are only used to analyze your viewing preferences while on this site! You do not have to allow tracking cookies to enjoy this site and you may disable them in your web browser! Thanks!

Disclosure

Although I am sometimes given free product to review or am paid to help promote certain products/websites, all opinions on this website are 100% my OWN!! I only work with brands that I truly use and LOVE, and I have no problem turning down offers from brands that I do not feel are great quality, or would not use!! I promote many brands without incentive as well, I just enjoy sharing anything and everything I have found in hopes of make building/crafting simple enough everyone can do it!! You can be certain that if I am promoting it, I truly LOVE it!!

Tags

barn door bathroom bench chevron Christmas Decor concrete console table countertops dining bench dining table distressed finish diy fall decor farmhouse bench fireplace gift ideas holiday decor Home Depot industrial kitchen reno kitchen renovation knockoff makeover mantle media cabinet one room challenge outdoor furniture painting cabinets pallet wood playroom pottery barn Restoration Hardware review rope storage table table settings vanity wall art wall decor wall hanging wardrobe west elm winter decor wreath

Copyright © 2021 ยท Lifestyle Pro on Genesis Framework ยท WordPress ยท Log in

We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.OkNo