This is some funny shiz I tell you! This DIY TV Stand was supposed to be posted on the 4th of January! π When I pulled the draft up, I had a GREAT LAUGH at what I felt coming into 2020β¦if only I would have known!!! OY!!!πππ This is what it said:
βHappy New Year! Can you believe another year has FLOWN by? I cannotβ¦though I cannot say I am upset about 2019 being over either! Lol! I am excited to see what 2020 has in store and it is starting off pretty great since I was able to complete todayβs beautiful DIY TV stand/media console!β
Bwahahaha!! I canβt believe I thought 2020 was going to be GREAT and I was happy 2019 was overβ¦what I would do to have 2019 back now!!π I have had enough of you Corona, feel free to leave ANY DAY NOW! Lol!
Moving on! Let me show you the media console already I mean that is actually what this post is about, I promise!π
I mean, isnβt that the most beautiful, brawny thing you have ever seen? π (Donβt worry, that strange pinkish stripe isnβt so obvious in real life! Lol!) I saw a media console just like this over at RH.com and I could not help but copy them and build it! I LOVE this thing and am so happy to not only have this LARGE version available but I will also have plans for a smaller one as well Friday!
I know that not everyone has 93β³ to spare on a living room wall for this DIY tv stand but the smaller version will only require 49β³ of space! Woohoo!
I also have a few other projects that you may want to take a look at if this DIY TV stand is too large for your space!
This buffet could definitely be used as a media console if you wanted as well! Herringbone Door Buffet
I love that it looks a little rustic farmhouse, but at the same time has such a unique modern look! I am completely smitten with this piece of furniture! βΊ First, it was gnomes throughout the holidays, now it is my DIY media console! Wow, it really doesnβt take a lot to steal my heartβ¦my hubby better watch out!πππ
Not only is it beautiful on the outside, but itβs also beautiful on the inside as wellβ¦you know where it normally doesnβt count on a piece of furniture! Haha! It has all the media storage you need, DVD and game drawers, and shelves that hold all the accessories and consoles perfectly!
(Donβt mind that the back isnβt on yet! Lol! Or that I donβt have pictures in those frames either!ππ)
Enough about me and my love affairsβ¦would you like to build one? I do, I do!
Here are the downloadable plans:
If you love this DIY tv stand/media console but you donβt have time to build it now, make sure and PIN IT so you can find it later!
Materials for DIY TV Stand:
**Amazon links below are affiliate links! Any purchases made after clicking an affiliate will pay me a small percentage of your purchase amount at no extra cost to you! And I really appreciate it!π Other links are provided to help you but are not affiliate links!π
-2 β 3/4β³ β 4Γ8 sheets of plywood
-1 β 1/2β³ 4Γ8 sheet of plywood
-7 β 2x4x10
-1 β 2x6x10
-1 β 1x12x10
-1 β 1x4x10
-2 β 1x5x8
-3 β 1x2x8
-2 β 2x2x8
-1 β 2x3x8
-2 β 1/4β³ 2Γ4 sheet of plywood
βKreg Jig
βWood glue
β2 1/2β³ pocket hole screws
β1 1/4β³ pocket hole screws
β2β³ flat head screws β This is my FAVORITE brand of wood screw ever!
βsaw
βdrill
βjig saw or scroll saw
-1/2β³ oak dowels for the hinges
-5/8β³ pine dowel
-1/2β³ copper pipe for hinges
βepoxy
βpipe cutter
Cut List for DIY TV Stand:
2 β 2Γ4 @ 93β³ mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel (front and back of the top frame)
2 β 2Γ4 @ 20β³ mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel (side of the top frame)
6 β 2Γ4 @ 40 1/2β³ (front and back rails)
6 β 2Γ4 @ 34 1/2β³ (legs)
3 β 2Γ4 @ 16β³ (side and middle rails)
4 β 2Γ6 @ 26 3/4β³ (doors)
4 β 1Γ12 @ 26 3/4β³ (doors)
4 β 1Γ4 @ 26 3/4β³ (doors)
8 β 2Γ2 @ 15 1/2β³ (doors)
4 β 2Γ3 @ 22 3/4β³ (door handles)
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 13β³ x 86β³ (top)
3 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 16β³ x 27β³ (sides and middle)
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 16β³ x 87β³ (bottom)
2 β 1/4β³ pieces of plywood @ 24β³ x 43β³ (back) you can route a space or just staple on
Optional Interior β Wood is accounted for in the Materials list
Interior left:
8 β 1Γ2 @ 15 3/4β³ for undershelf braces
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 43 5/8β³ with notches cut on the front edge
3 β 1/2β³ pieces of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 36β³ (drawer bottoms)
6 β 1/2β³ pieces of plywood ripped down to 3 1/2β³ wide x 36β³ long (drawer fronts and backs)
6 β 1/2β³ pieces of plywood ripped down to 3 1/2β³ wide x 14 3/4β³ long (drawer sides)
4 β 1Γ5 @ 43 5/8β³
Interior Right:
8 β 1Γ2 @ 15 3/4β³ undershelf braces
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 43 5/8β³ with notches cut on the front edge
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 20β³ (first vertical board)
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 36 5/8β³ with notch cut in right front edge (second horizontal shelf)
1 β 3/4β³ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 14β³ (second vertical board)
Option 2: One shelf on each side
2 β 3/4β³ pieces of plywood @ 15 3/4β³ x 43 5/8β³ with notches cut on front edges
If you want the free downloadable plans, click the link and enter your email, the plans will be sent straight to your inbox! DIY TV Stand Printable Plans
Building the DIY TV Stand
I used the Kreg Jig to build this DIY TV stand, so let me share a little info on how to use the Kreg Jig just in case you are new here!
Since we are using 2x wood (2x4s) the actual width of the 2x4s is 1 1/2β³, so we are going to set the Kreg Jig to 1 1/2β³.
Then we will set the drill bit to the same depth of 1 1/2β³.
Now clamp your board, and drill your holes!
Building the back frame of the DIY TV Stand / Media Console
You can see in the photos below where you need to place the pocket holes.
You will want to use wood glue on ALL the joints during the build and any 2x wood, you will use 2 1/2β³ pocket hole screws!
The back frame is done.
Building the front frame of the DIY TV Stand / Media Console
The front frame is almost the same as the back except the 2x4s @ 40 1/2β³ across the top are not there. You will just add the actual top board (2Γ4 @ 93β³ 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel) to hold it all together. This same board will be placed on the back frame in later steps as well.
The top frame board is not flush with the front or back but centered on the two, which will make it a 1β³ overhang on both sides. I used 1β³ scrap pieces of wood under the other 2x4s to keep it in place and amke sure it was attached correctly.
back
front
See how it is missing the top 2x4s? Thatβs how you want it to look! Front frame is done! See downloadable plans if you need extra help understanding the building of the front or back frame.
Attaching Front and Back Frames
Attach the front and back frames together using the side and middle rail boards (3 β 2x4s @ 16β³).
I added the side plywood at the same time as the bottom 2x4s to keep everything square and held in place. The plywood is only 3/4β³ thick, actual measurement, so the Kreg Jig will need to be changed to 3/4β³, the drill bit will need to be changed to 3/4β³ as well. You will use 1 1/4β³ screws to attach!
Make sure and drill pocket holes on all four sides of the plywood, the holes drilled along the top of the plywood will be used later to attach the top.
I used a place holder because I used a solid bottom piece of plywood instead of two cut pieces. I placed the middle 2Γ4 @ 16β³ down 3/4β³ to accommodate the plywood going over it. If this doesnβt make sense, the printable plans will help!
Make sure and use wood glue on the plywood as well.
Now, go figure, it wouldnβt be a complete post if I didnβt forget to take pictures at a certain point or lose the pictures if I did take them! I swear if only I started and finished a project in a normal amount of time, maybe I wouldnβt have to say this pretty much EVERY STINKING POST! OY! As usual, I apologize and will use Sketchup pics where I didnβt take them!
Now, the next few steps are shown in the order that I did them, but you are more than welcome to change that up, I was not sure what I was doing for the shelves at first so I built the basic outside structure and then added the shelving, the doors, and last the drawers because they have to fit inside the doors!
Adding the Bottom Plywood
I attached the bottom plywood at this point, I usually always flip a cabinet over and attach top first and work my way down (up) to the bottom, but I am not using pocket holes to attach my shelves so I did not add them first, but you can.
The easiest way to do this is to place your plywood across the bottom, and then clamp scrap boards across the bottom of the media cabinet along the 2x4s, then flip the cabinet over so you can lay your plywood on your scrap boards and it will be supported while you screw it into place! (Pretend the plywood is under those βclamped boardsββ¦lol!)
Add the Middle Partition
Choose whichever side you would like the pocket holes to face. Screw the partition into place!
Building the Top of the DIY TV Stand
Now we can finish the top! Building the top of the media console consists of finishing the mitered frame as I will call it, and then attaching the plywood inside of the frame.
The front board of the top is already attached to the console, I suggest adding the sides next and then the back. All the top frame boards are mitered at 45 degrees off square, but you can still use pocket holes to attach them. Make sure when you are drilling your pocket holes that you can see where they will be drilled so you can make sure there will not be any unsightly holes on the edge of a board.
Drill 1 1/2β³ pocket holes into the side boards only, on both ends. Attach these with pocket holes to the front board, and then add the back. Flipping it over helps see where the pocket holes are the easiest and will hold your plywood in place as you attach it as well.
Make sure after you have attached the new frame boards to each other that you use the previously drilled pocket holes to attach it all to the cabinet as well!
Building the Doors of the DIY TV Stand
Alright, the doors are the hardest part of the build. They are not actually hard per se, more so, they require a few jigsaw/scroll saw cuts which if you have been here any length of time, you know I am not great at the small tedious stuff that requires skill!! LOL!!
This was the part when I started putting it all off because the cuts had to be precise and I am not good at precise, donβt be like me, putting it off does not make you any more precise! π Just get it over with, and worst-case scenario, the sooner you start, the sooner you can recut them if needed! (That was me talking to myself as well!π€)
Start off by cutting all your door boards to the same length. This is important so you may want to set up a stop block to make sure they are all exact! Each door will consist of:
1 β 2Γ6 @ 26 3/4β³
1 β 1Γ12 @26 3/4β³
1 β 1Γ4 @ 26 3/4β³
They will be attached in that order! I used pocket holes drilled along both sides of the 1Γ12 to attach. Again, a 1x has an actual measurement of 3/4β³ so pocket holes will be drilled at a depth of 3/4β³ and attached with 1 1/4β³ screws and wood glue.
The 1Γ12 is flush with the back of the 2Γ6, creating dimension between the 2Γ6 and the 1Γ12 on the front of the doorβ¦if that makes sense.
I also had to rip a 1/4β³ off of the 1x4s to make the door 20β³ wide. A 2Γ6 has an actual width of 5 1/2β³ + the actual width of a 1Γ12 is 11 1/4β³ + the actual width of a 1Γ4 is 3 1/2β³ so that equals 20 1/4β³ and we need our doors to be 20β³ total! I actually even ended up having to shave a little more off of each one after making my dowel hinges because they moved the doors over slightly more than 1/8β³, so you may want to go slightly over 1/4β³ or you can do as I did and run them through the table saw after you have the dowel hokes drilled! Up to you!
After assembling the boards for the door, itβs time to add the 2x2s to the front. These have small notches taken out on one end. The notches are cut at 3/4β³ x 3/4β³. This will fit over the edge of the 2Γ6. I notched them using the scroll saw but you can use a jigsaw if you donβt have a scroll saw.
This photo above was taken before I rounded all the edges of the 2x2s with a sander.
Measure down 4β³ from the top and 4β³ up from the bottom, that is where you will set your 2x2s, make sure they are flush with the edge of the door.
I measured on the back as well to make sure my screws go into the center of the 2Γ2.
I put ample wood glue on the 2x2s and clamped them in place where I wanted them, and picked up the door to screw them in from the back. Use flat headed screws though, I used Kreg Screws and the rounded head was keeping the doors from closing all the way! LoL! Itβs ALWAY something I learn along the way that I shouldnβt have done! π
Use 2β³ screws to attach.
Making Handles for the DIY TV Stand
The last thing to do before the doors are finished is turning a 2Γ3 into a handle! This was the trickiest part since it has to fit perfectly over the 2x2s we attached in the last step.
2x3s are an off the shelf lumber in hardware stores around me, but I know that they may not be as common in some areas. If that is the case, you can rip a 2Γ4 down to 2 1/2β³. I actually ran the 2Γ3 through my table saw just to take the rounded edge off so it sat completely flat against the door!
Once you have the 2x3s cut down to 22 3/4β³ and the rounded edge removed, if you prefer, then just set them on top of the 2x2s and mark where they need to be cut.
Cut them and glue and screw them from the back just as you did the 2x2s!
Dowel Hinges for DIY TV Stand
Now you need to attach the doors to the console, but I couldnβt find any store bought hinges that would work on a 2x board! π¬ Didnβt even think about that when I was planning the build of this TV stand! But luckily, I came up with an idea to make my own dowel and pipe hingesβ¦and believe it or not, it worked! π΅ I made a separate post since itβs kind of a process and more than enough for a whole post of its own! See it here:
Building the Interior of the DIY TV Stand to Fit Your Needs
Lastly, you need to deck out the inside to fit your needs! Are you a gamer or have gamers in the house, you can easily make sure that all the gaming equipment fits perfectly into the console. Are you a movie lover and buy all the DVDs and Blu Rays of your favorite movies, if so you can build the drawers like I did to easily find the movie you are looking for! Or do you just want some basic simple shelves to store stuff inside, you can make that work as well!
This is the REASON I DIY! I LOVE to be able to build to suit my needs! We needed a little room to store odd-sized gaming equipment, a record player and amp⦠and a lot of DVDs⦠this is what worked perfectly! You can customize this part to fit exactly what you want! If you happen to want yours just like mine, continue reading on to see how I did all the interior parts of the TV stand!
If you want just one shelf midway in the cabinet, it will simply be 2 pieces of plywood cut at 43 5/8β³ and either pocket holed into place, or you can use 1x2s as I did to brace the shelves so you can easily change them if need be!
Building Out the Left Side of the DIY TV Stand
Add the top shelf! Since it is the longest shelf you will need to add it to the media console before adding the doors or drawers!
The top shelf needs to be notched out of the front edges so that the doors can easily swing into this space when opening. They are notched 1β³ inward and 4 1/2β³ long.
Using the 1x2s @ 15 3/4β³ brace the shelf up on both sides with 1 1/4β³ screws. You can glue the 1x2s if you would like, but I didnβt so I could move them if I ever wanted to change it up!
Next, you will build the drawer boxes! They are 36β³ long by 15 3/4β³ wide, they have to be this short to fit between the two open doors! And before you build yours, you will want to MAKE SURE AND MEASURE between your two open doors! Yes, that does mean that the doors should be in place, or at least holes drilled and tested to make sure of the space between them! Check top and bottom measurements as well, as one of my top dowels went in a little crooked and the bottom drawer had to be slightly smaller than 36β³.
Take your piece of 1/2β³x 36β³x 15 3/4β³ piece of plywood and attach 2 β 1/2β³x 36β³x 3 1/2β³ and 2 β 1/2βx 14 3/4β³x 3 1/2β³ pieces to it with pocket holes drilled at 1/2β³ depth and use 1β³ screws! Make sure and USE WOOD GLUE or else your boxes can easily fall apart!
As you can see in the pic below, you will drill pocket holes along the edge of all the boards and on the two small (14 3/4β³x 3 1/2β³) will have holes drilled on both ends as well!
Drawer slides are attached to the bottom of the drawers since they are set too far in to be side slides. I attached the slides to the bottom of the drawer first. By the way, I bought these drawer slides from D. Lawless Hardware and they are a fraction of the cost of the ones from the big box stores, but JUST AS AMAZING!
I used side mount drawer slides even though they have bottom mount! Lol!
The bottom drawer is just going to have drawer slides affixed to the bottom plywood of the cabinet.
Set the drawer in place, and then push down on the inside of the drawer to slide the drawer out without moving the whole slide, only slide it out a small way and climb over the drawer to attach screws! Then pull the drawer out furthur to place other screws!
First drawer is IN!!! Pop open a cold drink and celebrate!!π
The next drawer needs supports to attach the drawer slides to, so I added 2 β 1x5s to attach the slides to, you can use another size board if you canβt find 1x5s but I wouldnβt go with a smaller board, only larger. If you went with a smaller board, there wouldnβt be a place for more than 2 screws in the slides!
I attached the 1x5s the same way I did all the other shelves, just a 1Γ2 brace. I went ahead and put both of the sets of 1x5s in at this point because you can move them out of your way, but if you donβt put them in at this point you wonβt have enough room to put them in!
The first set goes in at 7 1/4β³ from the bottom of the cabinet, to the bottom of the 1Γ5. Second goes in at 15β³ up from the bottom of the cabinet to the bottom of 1Γ5. (supports go below)
Now all you have to do is build the other 2 drawer boxes and put them in! Keeping the back of the cabinet open is the only way to get the top drawer slides in! After it is all in and finished, then you can add the backβ¦or not as I have yet to do!ππ
Building Out the Right Side of the DIY TV Stand
On to the shelves! Woot, Woot!
Now, just an FYI, the shelves must be in BEFORE the doors go on!
The top shelf is the exact same as on the left side. It is just set a little lower to allow for taller gaming consoles. It is set at 20β³ up from the bottom of the cabinet.
On the right side, the same 1Γ2 @ 15 3/4β³ support boards are used to support all shelves. You can choose whether or not you want to screw the shelf down to the support boards or not.
The next shelf is the verticle shelf to the left.
Then the second horizontal shelf.
In this pic below. it does not show the notch cut, but it does NEED TO BE NOTCHED only on the right side but just like the top shelf! The notch will be 1β³ inward and 4 1/2β³ long. The door will not open if it is not notched!
Last but not least is the vertical divider!
Boom! DONE! Fill it up with all the stuff that has been lying around for the last yearβ¦oh thatβs just me?! My bad!π π
Now put doors on this side to COMPLETE your DIY media cabinet, gaming storage, tv stand, whatever you want to call it!! Or heck you can use it as a buffet, or any other table you need! Hereβs the link to the DOWEL AND PIPE HINGES in case you missed it above!
And just like that, you made a beautiful piece of artwork that hides and organizes all of your tv watching and gaming needs!
I happen to LOVE it! It looks EVEN BETTER in real life, if thatβs even possible!π
Well, I better get to work on all my fun fall projects I have planned over the next couple weeks! See you soon!
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