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DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Rings

November 30, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Do you know what’s funny? I’m all into creating table settings this year, and I don’t even host Thanksgiving or Christmas at my house! Lol! I happen to be a sucker for it anyway, even if my family and I are the only ones that see it! ๐Ÿค“ Plus today’s DIY napkin rings can be used year-round, dressed up or down for a nice dinner or even hot dogs! Lol! That is the way I roll, just add gold and it immediately makes them fancy!๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Ring

The DIY hexagon napkin rings pair really well with my DIY marble epoxy pumpkin chargers, but yet would look great without the table fully set as well or use them with the Christmas chargers I am currently pouring that I can’t wait to show you! EEK!! They would make a great hostess gift if you are heading to a friend’s home or family members for a holiday party!

DIY Napkin Rings

You can make a full set of napkin rings in about an hour’s time of actual work…a little longer when you count dry times of paint and wood glue! Aren’t those the best DIYs though, the ones that look so good but do not cost a lot or have in-depth, time-consuming steps?! Lol!

DIY Hexagon Napkin Rings

You could package them with a little bow and gift tag…boom, a quick gift to throw in a stocking or hand over to a hostess at a holiday party! I mean, I am holding out hope that in a month the holidays will be normal!๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ˜ฌ

Anyway, let me show you how to whip them up!

Materials for the DIY Napkin Rings

**Amazon links below are affiliate links!! An affiliate link is a link that allows me to receive a commission from any purchases that you make for a short time after clicking the link, at no extra cost to you! It is a real win-win for us both to keep my content coming at you for free!**

-1 – 1/4″ 1″x6′ pine lattice or 1/4″ poplar project board (ripped to 1″)

–miter saw

–filler primer

–gold spray paint

–wood glue

–painter’s tape

–sander

Cut List:

-6 – pine lattice cut (or poplar project board) @ 1 1/4″ long and beveled on both ends @ 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel (this makes 1 napkin ring so multiply this times however many napkin rings you want to make).

Making the DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Rings

If you purchased pine lattice, it should be sized 1″ already, if you grabbed a poplar project board, it will need to be ripped down to 1″ wide.

Once it is ripped to size, you can cut your pieces.

Set the bevel on your miter saw to 30 degrees. If your miter saw doesn’t bevel, or you want to use the miter instead…as I did, you will need to set the miter to 30 degrees and you will cut each piece on its side.

DIY Napkin Rings - Gold Hexagon shape, cutting the beveled edges

I couldn’t find my clamp for my miter saw, and I don’t think it would have swung this far over even if I could have found it! Lol! So I used a piece of painter’s tape as a guide once I measured out where 1 1/4″ was on the saw.

The painter’s tape gives you a stop block so you don’t have to measure every time you cut one piece…that would take forever to make one napkin ring! And yes, I am well aware that it is not taped square to what I am cutting, but I was only lining up the very top edge.

Once you have the saw set up and tape in place, cut, cut, cut, and cut some more until you have all the pieces you need to complete as many napkin rings as you need for your table!

Making the DIY gold hexagon napkin rings

DIY Napkin Ring Pieces

Lay out a piece of painter’s tape and set the pieces beveled edge to beveled edge on the tape.

DIY napkin rings - making hexagons

Making DIY Napkin Rings in a hexagon shape

DIY Napkin Rings

Once you have all six on the tape, add wood glue in between each piece!

DIY Napkin Rings - how to make

Then roll the tape up completing the hexagon! Make sure all the pieces are lined up properly when the tape is around them.

DIY Hexagon Napkin Rings - How to make

How to make DIY Napkin Rings

Make sure the tape is tight around the hexagon to make sure the glue is able to set and hold them together! You can even wrap an extra piece of tape around to make sure!

DIY Hexagon Napkin RIngs

Whip up as many as you need to complete your table settings and then let them sit for a couple of hours and then come back and check on them! This gives the wood glue time to set. If you want to be sure, give it 2 or 3 hours…and then completely forget about them as I did!๐Ÿ˜‚

Sand them lightly to get rid of any scraggly pieces from the saw, and spray them with the filler primer. The filler primer is an important part of making them look like they are not made out of wood. It fills in all the pores and gives it a really smooth surface for the paint to adhere to. Use two coats! I learned about this from the AMAZING and INCREDIBLY talented Lizzy @thehouseoftimber! She is the scroll saw QUEEN!๐Ÿ˜ Make sure and follow her if you aren’t already…you will NOT be disappointed!!๐Ÿ˜Š

DIY Napkin Rings - Painting the napkin rings

Anyway, sand lightly after the two coats of primer, and then when you spray them with the gold paint they magically look like they are made of metal or plastic, definitely not wood! Lol!

Just a tip, you want to wait until the primer is fully dry before you sand, I messed mine up by rushing to sand them 20 minutes after I sprayed them! OY!! The primer feels dry to the touch really quickly, don’t be fooled as I was! Lol!

Here’s the gold spray paint I used on the napkin rings!

DIY Gold Napkin Rings

Let them dry and slide them on some beautiful napkins! Another tip, after testing everything on this napkin ring, I sanded using a stationary sander as opposed to trying to use a handheld sander, and it worked WAY better!! Then I just used a tiny bit of wood filler on the miters and they look way better!!

DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Rings

DIY Napkin Rings

Pretty simple, huh?! I told ya, and TOTALLY worth it!

DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Rings

Have any other ideas on what I could make into a hexagon shape? If you do, don’t tell me I already have too many hexagon projects! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜œ I’m kidding! Let me know in the comments below! Have you made these napkin rings? Send me an email with some pictures or tag me on social media, I LOVE seeing y’all’s projects from my tutorials…makes my day!!

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Hope you all have safe travels if you are headed out of town this week! Thanks for stopping by!

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DIY Napkin Rings - Gold Hexagons

Filed Under: Crafts, Gift Ideas, Holidays Tagged With: fall table, hexagon, holiday table settings, napkin rings, table settings

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers

November 25, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Hey there! It has been so hard to get into fall and winter crafty projects since it has been nothing but HOT here! Lol! I want some COLD weather already!! If you are having cold weather, send me some, pretty please!! No matter the weather, the days don’t stop so I still have to force myself into projects like these beautiful DIY marble epoxy pumpkin chargers!

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Charger - Get your table fall ready with pumpkin plate chargers

Aren’t they the most beautiful thing you have ever seen?! ๐Ÿ˜œ

DIY Pumpkin Shaped Charger for Dinner Plates and table settings

 

DIY Marble Epoxy Chargers

Well let me tell you, I need someone to come take the epoxy away from me! Lol! I am making ALL the marble epoxy projects this week! And hexagons, someone come take the 30-degree marker off my saw to keep me from making any more hexagon projects! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚

DIY Marble Epoxy Plate Chargers

See the hexagon napkin rings in the photos?!

DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Ring

They are so inexpensive, easy to make, and can go with ANY table setting you create!

If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you saw a year or so ago, I shared making a marble epoxy countertop pour that I was INTRIGUED by! I have been wanting to create faux marble epoxy projects of all kinds ever since, and in the last few days, I have fulfilled this desire! ๐Ÿ˜… Wanna see all the marble epoxy projects?

DIY Marble Epoxy Hexagon Chargers (coming soon)

DIY Marble Epoxy Hexagon Coasters (coming soon)

DIY Marble Epoxy Hexagon Napkin Rings (coming soon)

I LOVE all the marble epoxy and would be happy to receive any of these projects as a gift! Not only is it a handmade gift, but it looks REALLY good too! And marble is so expensive that this is a WONDERFUL alternative! From hostess gifts to actual Christmas gifts, you will want to grab a couple of bottles of epoxy resin and get busy!!๐Ÿ˜

DIY Marble Epoxy Charger Shaped like a pumpkin

Could you imagine an ornament just like this for a Christmas table setting, they could be red and green marble, or solid red and solid green…the ideas just run amuck in my mind!! SO. MANY. IDEAS.๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿค“

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DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers

 

Okay back to the tutorial for the DIY marble epoxy pumpkin chargers! Here’s the PUMPKIN PATTERN if you want to cut your own! But you could also make squares, circles, hexagons (as I did), or any other shape you can cut! Dream up something amazing, just make sure to share it with me!๐Ÿ˜Š I LOVE seeing your ideas and projects!

DIY Faux Marble Made with Epoxy Resin

Materials for DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers:

-3/4″x4’x4′ project panel plywood (easily makes 9-10 pumpkin chargers)

–scroll saw or jigsaw

–epoxy resin – this is the one I used, this is a great deal on Amazon as I paid the same at Hobby Lobby but had to pay an additional 12 dollars for the mixing measure cups! Also if you want to make more than 6 you can buy 2 sets, but I think I would just order a larger set, you can get 2 gallons for 70 bucks…you know how many epoxy pours you can do with that?!๐Ÿ˜

–white matte acrylic paint (or whatever color you want as your base color)

–gray spray paint (or whatever color you want to accent with)

-paper plate

-paintbrush – cheap…does NOT need to be quality, the cheaper the better so you can trash it when done!

–lighter or torch

-plastic drop cloth (I used an outdoor trash bag)

Making DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers

Cutting the Pumpkin Shape out of Plywood

I used plywood simply because I had a lot of smaller pieces that were scrap, and the pumpkin pattern is about 14″x14″ so there isn’t any off the shelf lumber that will accommodate the pattern!

You will need to print the pumpkin as a poster, this will tile the pumpkin on multiple pages so that it will be the correct size! If you haven’t downloaded the pattern yet, here it is! PUMPKIN CHARGER PATTERN

You will then tape the pumpkin pages together.

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Charger

Using painter’s tape, cover the plywood where the pumpkin pattern is going to be placed. Then spray the back of the pumpkin pattern with adhesive, and stick it to the painter’s tape! This keeps the plywood from becoming sticky from the pattern!

DIY Epoxy Pour

Marble Pumpkin Charger

 

Using a scroll saw or jigsaw, cut out the pumpkin shape!

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumplin Plate Charger

Sand the edges to make it smooth, also try and lightly round over the edges of the pumpkin to help the epoxy flow over the edge!

DIY Pumpkin Plate Charger

Paint your pumpkin edges or the whole thing, whatever color you plan on pouring over your pumpkin. I painted mine white because I was pouring white over it! Make sure you paint the edges well if you don’t want to see the plywood through the epoxy! Lol! Again, just ask me how I know?!๐Ÿ˜ฌ

Setting Up to Pour Epoxy

You will need to set up your space to keep from making a huge mess! I used a contractor bag instead of a drop cloth, because crazy as it is, the epoxy comes straight off and I can still use the bag! Lol!

DIY Marble Epoxy Pour

Set scrap boards or anything really to create a dam to keep the epoxy from running off the table. Place them under the drop cloth or trash bag!

DIY Faux Marble Pumpin

DIY Epoxy pour of fake marble

Set your pumpkin up on something, I used painter’s triangles for some and also just quart paint cans…they both work great! You just want the epoxy to be able to run off the edges, if you don’t lift it up, it will dry looking like your pumpkin melted ๐Ÿ˜‚ and that is not the look we are going for!

Pouring the Marble Epoxy Over the Pumpkin

Mix the epoxy just as the directions tell you, usually a 1:1 ratio…basically, however much you pour of part A, you match with part B, it’s pretty simple! For each pumpkin it will take 5 oz. so you will mix 2 1/2″ ounces of A and 2 1/2″ ounces of B. If you are doing all your pumpkins at once, you can use a measuring bucket instead of the little cups and mix enough for all of them at once!

Add the acrylic paint to your mixed epoxy resin and stir the paint until it’s all white or whatever color you are going for. Then…drumroll, please…POUR THE EPOXY!!

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin

It is sooooo satisfying!! Start in the middle and only pour a little, so you can see how fast…or slow it flows. Depending on the speed, you may want to pour around the edges, but no matter where you pour it, you can use a popsicle stick to spread it around, or a gloved hand, paintbrush, etc.

How to Create the Marble effect with Epoxy

DIY Marble Effect with Epoxy

Once the pumpkin is covered with epoxy and flowing over the edges, rub around the edges making sure to cover all of it. You will notice it drips in certain areas but not others, that is why you rub around the edge to make sure it flows over everywhere and covers.

How to Create the Marble Effect with Epoxy

Creating the Marble Veins in the Epoxy

Next, you will spray a little spray paint onto the paper plate and use your paintbrush to create the marbling in the epoxy. This will take just messing with it to find the pattern you like most. Marble comes in so many variations, you really can’t mess it up!

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkins

DIY Marble Epoxy - making a pumpkin plate charger that looks like marble

DIY Marble Epoxy Plate Charger

Marble Epoxy - How to create the marble look with epoxy

I just keep working the gray and adding more streaks where I want them!

How to create marble with epoxy

Marble Epoxy

You have about 15 minutes to play with the marble veins and then you risk divets in the finish. Don’t overthink it! And what you see when you walk away, will not be the exact finished project, the paint will settle and lighten slightly! 

Lightly run a torch or lighter (torch works best) over the top of the epoxy after you have it how you like it just to get out any air bubbles! Don’t get too close with a torch or stay in one spot too long or it will create a bunch of tiny air bubbles where it pretty much boils the epoxy! Lol!

DIY Marble effect with Epoxy

Let it sit overnight and in the morning, come check your masterpiece! Make sure you keep your pets away from the area and ask the bugs to stay away as they can ruin a project real quick! Oy!

Finishing the Marble Epoxy Pumpkins

There will be drips on the bottom of the pumpkins, you can sand them off or just leave them as I did! They weren’t noticeable so I left them, if I were giving them as a gift I would probably try to wipe the bottom at the hour mark to try to keep from creating them, or sand them off…but I am not worried about them for me!

Last, I covered my pumpkin and used painter’s tape to tape off the stem, then spray painted it gold just to give it that little touch to match the other gold in my table setting!

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers

DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers

And they are DONE! Set the table, break out the fine china…it looks like you have MARBLE PLATE CHARGERS…you FANCY!!!๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY Marble Epoxy Plate Chargers

The ideas are absolutely ENDLESS when it comes to what you can make with the marble epoxy!! I mean, I could marble epoxy EVERYTHING…and I just might if someone doesn’t take it away from me!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚

What ideas do you have for DIY marble epoxy projects? Let me know in the comments below! Hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving!! Thanks for stopping by!

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Filed Under: Crafts, Gift Ideas, Projects Tagged With: fall table setting, pumpkin, table settings, thanksgiving

DIY Hinges Made From Dowel and Pipe

November 22, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

So you built the DIY TV Stand and now you want to add the doors, here’s where I show you how to take an oak dowel rod and a little copper pipe and turn them into DIY hinges for your media cabinet!

DIY Hinges

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

I even have a video for you guys to go along with this post…but I have to admit, it is not the best! ๐Ÿ˜… I am still working on figuring out a way to make videos without having someone stand behind the camera…and it’s not easy! I get working and get into my own little world and forget that I am needing to show every little step, and before I know it, I’m done and the video caught very little of what I did! Lol! It should be posted here tomorrow!

Materials for DIY hinges:

**Note Amazon links below are affiliate links! Affiliate links show that you came from my website and pays me a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase after clicking an Amazon link! I appreciate it any time you make purchases from a link of mine! It makes me do a happy dance!๐Ÿ˜‰

-1 – 1/2″ x 4ft oak dowel rod (you definitely want oak or hardwood, not pine)

-1 –1/2″ x 2ft copper pipe

-1 – 5/8″ pine dowel rod – shortest length you can find, it’s only for capping off the top.

-1 – spare dowel rod, smaller than 1/2″ to use to measure the depth of holes, you won’t cut this one, it’s only to measure!

–1/2″ Forstner bit

–5/8″ Forstner bit

–epoxy

–drill

-saw

–pipe cutter

–square

CUT LIST:

There really isn’t a set cut list because, on your dowel rods, you will have to measure how deep you drill your holes into the cabinet and into the doors, plus 1/8″ to get your measurements! This will vary trust me, some were only 2 1/8″ and others were 3 1/4″! LOL! I was a little more heavy-handed with the drill bit on some more than others!๐Ÿ˜ณ

With the pipe it is the same, you will have to cut your pipe based on the depth of holes drilled into the cabinet!

Making Your DIY Hinges from Dowel and Pipe

Drill holes in the bottom of the media cabinet

Drill 4 – 5/8″ holes along the bottom 2×4 of the media cabinet. Mark 1 1/4″ from the leg (2×4 @ 34 1/2″ board) and 3/4″ from the front of the 2×4, place an X. You will drill right smack in the center of the X! Go about an inch or so deep.

*When it is zoomed in to see the spacing of the hole, you can’t really see where the hole is on the cabinet so as you scroll the next three photos, it’s just zooming out!

DIY Dowel and Pipe hinges

DIY Dowel and Pipe Hinges

DIY Dowel and Pipe Hinges

DIY Hinges

Cut Pipe to Fit in Holes

After drilling all four holes along the bottom, use the copper pipe and stick it in each hole to mark where to cut the pipe! Each of mine was different measurements! Lol! Using the pipe cutter, cut your pipe to size.

DIY HInges - fitting the pipe

Cutting the Pipe for DIY Hinges

Don’t mind that I had to take screenshots from my phone! Lol!

Epoxy Pipe in Place

Using a fast dry epoxy that mixes itself, I lightly smeared it on the inside of the hole and stuck the pipe in the hole to set. I also added a small amount to the very bottom of the hole to create a hard surface for the dowel rod to rotate on, since pine is a softwood, I didn’t want the dowel to wear it down with every turn and then the door sink down the 1/8″ that we have spaced to hold it up and rub on the bottom!

DIY Hinges - How to epoxy the pipe

DIY Hinges

I didn’t plan on it, but I ended up letting the epoxy sit overnight to make sure it was hardened in the bottom of the hole and I am glad I did, you don’t want your dowel stuck in the epoxy if it happens to not be dry all the way!๐Ÿ˜† Granted, I used the epoxy at like 9 pm, so it was only 12 hours or so, not 24!

Drill Holes in the Bottom of the Doors

After the bottom pipe is set, you have to drill holes in the bottom of the doors. Measure your bottom holes again, we know the holes were SUPPOSED to be at 1 1/4″ and 3/4″ but sometimes the actual holes are a little off…oh that only happens to me?! Skip this step if that doesn’t happen to you as well! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿค”

Measure to make sure where your holes ended up, and from the 1 1/4″ measurement, subtract 3/16″. This will give you a 3/16″ gap for the door to swing.

DIY Hinges

DIY Hinges - drilling the holes for the dowel rods

DIY Hinges

If you only do 1/8″ on the spacing here, the door will rub, it still works, but rubs! Ask me how I know! Oy! Yes, the first door that I did at 1/8″ rubs, so I moved the others the extra 1/16″ and it worked perfectly!

Let’s say your measurement that was supposed to be 1 1/4″ was actually drilled at 1 3/16″ inches to center, you will mark to drill the hole in your door at 1″, and 3/4″. Drill the hole in the door with a 1/2″ drill bit…NOT THE 5/8″ DRILL BIT. Why do I stress this in all caps? You guessed it, I drilled my first door with the 5/8″ drill bit that was already in my drill…LIKE AN IDIOT!!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ Nothing that a little epoxy and toothpicks couldn’t fix but save yourself the trouble, grab the 1/2″ drill bit!!!๐Ÿ˜…

Measure to Cut Dowel Rod for Bottom Doors

Okay, now you will use the small dowel rod again and stick it into the bottom hole in the cabinet, measure. Add 1/8″ to that measurement. Stick the small dowel rod into the door and mark the dowel, measure that…and add the number you had from the cabinet and 1/8″ to this number. This will be the measurement for your 1/2″ oak dowel rod that will be glued inside that door.

So let’s say your hole in the cabinet is 1″, plus the 1/8″ = 1 1/8″ then let’s say the depth of the hole in the door measures 1 1/4″, your total size to cut your dowel rod for that door is 2 3/8″ long.

Once it’s cut, you can glue it in the door and test it. You will have to pound it into the hole with a hammer and a scrap wood block. I cut mine a hair on the long side just in case, you can easily cut it down while it’s in the door but it’s a lot harder to pull it out and cut a new one.

DIY Hinges

Check the spacing, you are looking at the spacing between the top of the door and the cabinet and the bottom of the door and the cabinet. You are also checking the space on the left or right of the door (whichever is the hinge side) making sure it isn’t too close or too far away from the cabinet leg.

DIY Hinges

If all the spacing looks good, you will want to drill the holes in the top of the cabinet.

Drilling the Holes in the Top of the Media Cabinet

You will want to mark the holes on the top the same as the bottom, the only problem is, the top doesn’t have a 2×4 on its side, you are drilling through the face of the 2×4. Luckily, using a square you can manage to mark it the same as the bottom.

DIY Hinges made from dowel rods and pipe

DIY Hinges Made from Dowel and Pipe

Make sure and use a scrap piece of wood clamped to the top of the cabinet to keep from having rough holes on the top of the cabinet.

Drill the holes!

DIY Hinges

I had to use an extender only because my shelf was in the drill’s way, if you have already notched the shelf as it is shown in the media cabinet plans, you shouldn’t need an extender!

Epoxy Pipe in Top of Media Cabinet

Once the top cabinet holes are drilled, you can epoxy the pipe in the top holes just as you did in the bottom. You know the holes are drilled 1 1/2″ deep but you will want the pipe set down a 1/4″ or so so that you can cap the hole with a 5/8″ dowel and not see any of the pipe or hole! So cut 4 pipe pieces at 1 1/4″ and epoxy in place!

DIY Hinges

Drilling the Holes in the Top of the Doors

Allow the epoxy to set. Then place the doors back in place, line them up and drill through the top of the cabinet into the door with your 1/2″ drill bit. Drilling the door holes this way helps ensure the holes are lined up!

DIY Hinges

Measuring to Cut Dowel Rods for Top Doors

Using a long dowel rod not cut to size yet, you can check the door and see how it’s going to look!

DIY Hinges made from dowel rods and pipe

Now using the small dowel rod, measure how deep you drilled the holes into the top of your doors, add 1/8″ and add 1 1/4″ to that measurement!

Let’s say you drilled into your door 1 1/8″, add 1/8″ to that = 1 1/4″ then add + 1 1/4″ = 2 1/2″, you would cut your 1/2″ oak dowel at 2 1/2″ and glue it into place from the top of the cabinet! You will have to hammer it into place using another piece of the dowel so that you can hammer it into the hole…if that makes sense!

Cover the Holes in the Top of the Media Cabinet

Once you have hammered the dowel rods into place in the top, you will cut 1/4″ pieces of 5/8″ pine dowels to cover the holes in the top. Make sure and use wood glue, but don’t gob it on, keep it minimal so it doesn’t squeeze out on top! Stain the dowel! BOOM!! You just made your OWN hinges from dowels and pipe!! How cool is that?! I was pretty proud, and you have every right to be as well!๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜Š

DIY Hinges

 

Open and close those doors…open and close, open and close…you did that…you did that!! ๐Ÿ’ƒWoohoo! Now sit back and enjoy that fact that YOU built a media cabinet to hide all the ugly stuff! Haha!!

Let me know if you have any questions or comments below! I appreciate you stopping by!

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DIY Hinges - Make your own hinges from a dowel rod and pipe

Filed Under: Furniture, How To, Projects, Tips and Tricks Tagged With: diy hinges, dowel hinges, make your own hinges, media cabinet

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

November 9, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

This is some funny shiz I tell you! This DIY TV Stand was supposed to be posted on the 4th of January! ๐Ÿ˜… When I pulled the draft up, I had a GREAT LAUGH at what I felt coming into 2020…if only I would have known!!! OY!!!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜‚ This is what it said:

“Happy New Year! Can you believe another year has FLOWN by? I cannot…though I cannot say I am upset about 2019 being over either! Lol! I am excited to see what 2020 has in store and it is starting off pretty great since I was able to complete today’s beautiful DIY TV stand/media console!”

Bwahahaha!! I can’t believe I thought 2020 was going to be GREAT and I was happy 2019 was over…what I would do to have 2019 back now!!๐Ÿ˜‚ I have had enough of you Corona, feel free to leave ANY DAY NOW! Lol!

Moving on! Let me show you the media console already I mean that is actually what this post is about, I promise!๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

I mean, isn’t that the most beautiful, brawny thing you have ever seen? ๐Ÿ˜ (Don’t worry, that strange pinkish stripe isn’t so obvious in real life! Lol!) I saw a media console just like this over at RH.com and I could not help but copy them and build it! I LOVE this thing and am so happy to not only have this LARGE version available but I will also have plans for a smaller one as well Friday!

DIY TV Stand

I know that not everyone has 93″ to spare on a living room wall for this DIY tv stand but the smaller version will only require 49″ of space! Woohoo!

I also have a few other projects that you may want to take a look at if this DIY TV stand is too large for your space!

DIY Industrial Media Console

DIY Slim Truss Console Table

This buffet could definitely be used as a media console if you wanted as well! Herringbone Door Buffet 

I love that it looks a little rustic farmhouse, but at the same time has such a unique modern look! I am completely smitten with this piece of furniture! โ˜บ First, it was gnomes throughout the holidays, now it is my DIY media console! Wow, it really doesn’t take a lot to steal my heart…my hubby better watch out!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜œ

DIY Restoration Hardware Knockoff Console Table

Not only is it beautiful on the outside, but it’s also beautiful on the inside as well…you know where it normally doesn’t count on a piece of furniture! Haha! It has all the media storage you need, DVD and game drawers, and shelves that hold all the accessories and consoles perfectly!

(Don’t mind that the back isn’t on yet! Lol! Or that I don’t have pictures in those frames either!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ)

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

DIY Media Cabinet

Enough about me and my love affairs…would you like to build one? I do, I do!

Here are the downloadable plans:

DIY LARGE MEDIA CONSOLE
DIY TV stand / Media Cabinet

DIY SMALL MEDIA CONSOLE

DIY Small Media Console

If you love this DIY tv stand/media console but you don’t have time to build it now, make sure and PIN IT so you can find it later!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Materials for DIY TV Stand:

**Amazon links below are affiliate links! Any purchases made after clicking an affiliate will pay me a small percentage of your purchase amount at no extra cost to you! And I really appreciate it!๐Ÿ˜˜ Other links are provided to help you but are not affiliate links!๐Ÿ‘

-2 – 3/4″ – 4×8 sheets of plywood

-1 – 1/2″ 4×8 sheet of plywood

-7 – 2x4x10

-1 – 2x6x10

-1 – 1x12x10

-1 – 1x4x10

-2 – 1x5x8

-3 – 1x2x8

-2 – 2x2x8

-1 – 2x3x8

-2 – 1/4″ 2×4 sheet of plywood

–Kreg Jig

–Wood glue

–2 1/2″ pocket hole screws

–1 1/4″ pocket hole screws

–1″ pocket hole screws

–2″ flat head screws – This is my FAVORITE brand of wood screw ever!

–saw

–drill

–jig saw or scroll saw

-1/2″ oak dowels for the hinges

-5/8″ pine dowel

-1/2″ copper pipe for hinges

–epoxy

–pipe cutter

 

Cut List for DIY TV Stand:

2 – 2×4 @ 93″ mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel (front and back of the top frame)

2 – 2×4 @ 20″ mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel (side of the top frame)

6 – 2×4 @ 40 1/2″ (front and back rails)

6 – 2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (legs)

3 – 2×4 @ 16″ (side and middle rails)

4 – 2×6 @ 26 3/4″ (doors)

4 – 1×12 @ 26 3/4″ (doors)

4 – 1×4 @ 26 3/4″ (doors)

8 – 2×2 @ 15 1/2″ (doors)

4 – 2×3 @ 22 3/4″ (door handles)

1 –  3/4″ piece of plywood @ 13″ x 86″ (top)

3 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 16″ x 27″ (sides and middle)

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 16″ x 87″ (bottom)

2 – 1/4″ pieces of plywood @ 24″ x 43″ (back) you can route a space or just staple on

Optional Interior – Wood is accounted for in the Materials list

Interior left:

8 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ for undershelf braces

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 43 5/8″ with notches cut on the front edge

3 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 36″ (drawer bottoms)

6 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood ripped down to 3 1/2″ wide x 36″ long (drawer fronts and backs)

6 – 1/2″ pieces of plywood ripped down to 3 1/2″ wide x 14 3/4″ long (drawer sides)

4 – 1×5 @ 43 5/8″

Interior Right:

8 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ undershelf braces

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 43 5/8″ with notches cut on the front edge

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 20″ (first vertical board)

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 36 5/8″ with notch cut in right front edge (second horizontal shelf)

1 – 3/4″ piece of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 14″ (second vertical board)

 

Option 2: One shelf on each side

2 – 3/4″ pieces of plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 43 5/8″ with notches cut on front edges

If you want the free downloadable plans, click the link and enter your email, the plans will be sent straight to your inbox! DIY TV Stand Printable Plans

Building the DIY TV Stand

I used the Kreg Jig to build this DIY TV stand, so let me share a little info on how to use the Kreg Jig just in case you are new here!

Since we are using 2x wood (2x4s) the actual width of the 2x4s is 1 1/2″, so we are going to set the Kreg Jig to 1 1/2″.

How to set the depth of a Kreg Jig

Then we will set the drill bit to the same depth of 1 1/2″.

How to use a Kreg Jig

Now clamp your board, and drill your holes!

How to Use a Kreg Jig

Building the back frame of the DIY TV Stand / Media Console

You can see in the photos below where you need to place the pocket holes.

You will want to use wood glue on ALL the joints during the build and any 2x wood, you will use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws!

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

DIY Media Cabinet

The back frame is done.

Building the front frame of the DIY TV Stand / Media Console

The front frame is almost the same as the back except the 2x4s @ 40 1/2″ across the top are not there. You will just add the actual top board (2×4 @ 93″ 45 degrees off square, ends not parallel) to hold it all together. This same board will be placed on the back frame in later steps as well.

The top frame board is not flush with the front or back but centered on the two, which will make it a 1″ overhang on both sides. I used 1″ scrap pieces of wood under the other 2x4s to keep it in place and amke sure it was attached correctly.

back

DIY Media Consolefront
DIY Media Console

See how it is missing the top 2x4s? That’s how you want it to look! Front frame is done! See downloadable plans if you need extra help understanding the building of the front or back frame.

Attaching Front and Back Frames

Attach the front and back frames together using the side and middle rail boards (3 – 2x4s @ 16″).

I added the side plywood at the same time as the bottom 2x4s to keep everything square and held in place. The plywood is only 3/4″ thick, actual measurement, so the Kreg Jig will need to be changed to 3/4″, the drill bit will need to be changed to 3/4″ as well. You will use 1 1/4″ screws to attach!

Make sure and drill pocket holes on all four sides of the plywood, the holes drilled along the top of the plywood will be used later to attach the top.

I used a place holder because I used a solid bottom piece of plywood instead of two cut pieces. I placed the middle 2×4 @ 16″ down 3/4″ to accommodate the plywood going over it. If this doesn’t make sense, the printable plans will help!

Make sure and use wood glue on the plywood as well.

DIY TV Stand

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

Now, go figure, it wouldn’t be a complete post if I didn’t forget to take pictures at a certain point or lose the pictures if I did take them! I swear if only I started and finished a project in a normal amount of time, maybe I wouldn’t have to say this pretty much EVERY STINKING POST! OY! As usual, I apologize and will use Sketchup pics where I didn’t take them!

Now, the next few steps are shown in the order that I did them, but you are more than welcome to change that up, I was not sure what I was doing for the shelves at first so I built the basic outside structure and then added the shelving, the doors, and last the drawers because they have to fit inside the doors!

Adding the Bottom Plywood

I attached the bottom plywood at this point, I usually always flip a cabinet over and attach top first and work my way down (up) to the bottom, but I am not using pocket holes to attach my shelves so I did not add them first, but you can.

The easiest way to do this is to place your plywood across the bottom, and then clamp scrap boards across the bottom of the media cabinet along the 2x4s, then flip the cabinet over so you can lay your plywood on your scrap boards and it will be supported while you screw it into place! (Pretend the plywood is under those ‘clamped boards’…lol!)

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Add the Middle Partition

Choose whichever side you would like the pocket holes to face. Screw the partition into place!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Building the Top of the DIY TV Stand

Now we can finish the top! Building the top of the media console consists of finishing the mitered frame as I will call it, and then attaching the plywood inside of the frame.

The front board of the top is already attached to the console, I suggest adding the sides next and then the back. All the top frame boards are mitered at 45 degrees off square, but you can still use pocket holes to attach them. Make sure when you are drilling your pocket holes that you can see where they will be drilled so you can make sure there will not be any unsightly holes on the edge of a board.

Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the side boards only, on both ends. Attach these with pocket holes to the front board, and then add the back. Flipping it over helps see where the pocket holes are the easiest and will hold your plywood in place as you attach it as well.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Make sure after you have attached the new frame boards to each other that you use the previously drilled pocket holes to attach it all to the cabinet as well!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Building the Doors of the DIY TV Stand

Alright, the doors are the hardest part of the build. They are not actually hard per se, more so, they require a few jigsaw/scroll saw cuts which if you have been here any length of time, you know I am not great at the small tedious stuff that requires skill!! LOL!!

This was the part when I started putting it all off because the cuts had to be precise and I am not good at precise, don’t be like me, putting it off does not make you any more precise! ๐Ÿ˜… Just get it over with, and worst-case scenario, the sooner you start, the sooner you can recut them if needed! (That was me talking to myself as well!๐Ÿค“)

Start off by cutting all your door boards to the same length. This is important so you may want to set up a stop block to make sure they are all exact! Each door will consist of:

1 – 2×6 @ 26 3/4″

1 – 1×12 @26 3/4″

1 – 1×4 @ 26 3/4″

They will be attached in that order! I used pocket holes drilled along both sides of the 1×12 to attach. Again, a 1x has an actual measurement of 3/4″ so pocket holes will be drilled at a depth of 3/4″ and attached with 1 1/4″ screws and wood glue.

Plans for DIY TV Stand - Media Console

The 1×12 is flush with the back of the 2×6, creating dimension between the 2×6 and the 1×12 on the front of the door…if that makes sense.

I also had to rip a 1/4″ off of the 1x4s to make the door 20″ wide. A 2×6 has an actual width of 5 1/2″ + the actual width of a 1×12 is 11 1/4″ + the actual width of a 1×4 is 3 1/2″ so that equals 20 1/4″ and we need our doors to be 20″ total! I actually even ended up having to shave a little more off of each one after making my dowel hinges because they moved the doors over slightly more than 1/8″, so you may want to go slightly over 1/4″ or you can do as I did and run them through the table saw after you have the dowel hokes drilled! Up to you!

After assembling the boards for the door, it’s time to add the 2x2s to the front. These have small notches taken out on one end. The notches are cut at 3/4″ x 3/4″. This will fit over the edge of the 2×6. I notched them using the scroll saw but you can use a jigsaw if you don’t have a scroll saw.

DIY TV Stand - Building the Doors

 

This photo above was taken before I rounded all the edges of the 2x2s with a sander.

Measure down 4″ from the top and 4″ up from the bottom, that is where you will set your 2x2s, make sure they are flush with the edge of the door.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

I measured on the back as well to make sure my screws go into the center of the 2×2.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console - Restoration Hardware Knockoff

I put ample wood glue on the 2x2s and clamped them in place where I wanted them, and picked up the door to screw them in from the back. Use flat headed screws though, I used Kreg Screws and the rounded head was keeping the doors from closing all the way! LoL! It’s ALWAY something I learn along the way that I shouldn’t have done! ๐Ÿ˜†

Use 2″ screws to attach.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Making Handles for the DIY TV Stand

The last thing to do before the doors are finished is turning a 2×3 into a handle! This was the trickiest part since it has to fit perfectly over the 2x2s we attached in the last step.

2x3s are an off the shelf lumber in hardware stores around me, but I know that they may not be as common in some areas. If that is the case, you can rip a 2×4 down to 2 1/2″. I actually ran the 2×3 through my table saw just to take the rounded edge off so it sat completely flat against the door!

Once you have the 2x3s cut down to 22 3/4″ and the rounded edge removed, if you prefer, then just set them on top of the 2x2s and mark where they need to be cut.

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Cut them and glue and screw them from the back just as you did the 2x2s!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Dowel Hinges for DIY TV Stand

Now you need to attach the doors to the console, but I couldn’t find any store bought hinges that would work on a 2x board! ๐Ÿ˜ฌ Didn’t even think about that when I was planning the build of this TV stand! But luckily, I came up with an idea to make my own dowel and pipe hinges…and believe it or not, it worked! ๐Ÿ˜ต I made a separate post since it’s kind of a process and more than enough for a whole post of its own! See it here:

DIY DOWEL HINGES

Building the Interior of the DIY TV Stand to Fit Your Needs

Lastly, you need to deck out the inside to fit your needs! Are you a gamer or have gamers in the house, you can easily make sure that all the gaming equipment fits perfectly into the console. Are you a movie lover and buy all the DVDs and Blu Rays of your favorite movies, if so you can build the drawers like I did to easily find the movie you are looking for! Or do you just want some basic simple shelves to store stuff inside, you can make that work as well!

This is the REASON I DIY! I LOVE to be able to build to suit my needs! We needed a little room to store odd-sized gaming equipment, a record player and amp… and a lot of DVDs… this is what worked perfectly! You can customize this part to fit exactly what you want! If you happen to want yours just like mine, continue reading on to see how I did all the interior parts of the TV stand!

If you want just one shelf midway in the cabinet, it will simply be 2 pieces of plywood cut at 43 5/8″ and either pocket holed into place, or you can use 1x2s as I did to brace the shelves so you can easily change them if need be!

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

Building Out the Left Side of the DIY TV Stand

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Add the top shelf! Since it is the longest shelf you will need to add it to the media console before adding the doors or drawers!

The top shelf needs to be notched out of the front edges so that the doors can easily swing into this space when opening. They are notched 1″ inward and 4 1/2″ long.

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Using the 1x2s @ 15 3/4″ brace the shelf up on both sides with 1 1/4″ screws. You can glue the 1x2s if you would like, but I didn’t so I could move them if I ever wanted to change it up!

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

Next, you will build the drawer boxes! They are 36″ long by 15 3/4″ wide, they have to be this short to fit between the two open doors! And before you build yours, you will want to MAKE SURE AND MEASURE between your two open doors! Yes, that does mean that the doors should be in place, or at least holes drilled and tested to make sure of the space between them! Check top and bottom measurements as well, as one of my top dowels went in a little crooked and the bottom drawer had to be slightly smaller than 36″.

Take your piece of 1/2″x 36″x 15 3/4″ piece of plywood and attach 2 – 1/2″x 36″x 3 1/2″ and 2 – 1/2’x 14 3/4″x 3 1/2″ pieces to it with pocket holes drilled at 1/2″ depth and use 1″ screws! Make sure and USE WOOD GLUE or else your boxes can easily fall apart!

As you can see in the pic below, you will drill pocket holes along the edge of all the boards and on the two small (14 3/4″x 3 1/2″) will have holes drilled on both ends as well!

DIY TV Stand

Drawer slides are attached to the bottom of the drawers since they are set too far in to be side slides. I attached the slides to the bottom of the drawer first. By the way, I bought these drawer slides from D. Lawless Hardware and they are a fraction of the cost of the ones from the big box stores, but JUST AS AMAZING!

I used side mount drawer slides even though they have bottom mount! Lol!

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

DIY TV Stand

The bottom drawer is just going to have drawer slides affixed to the bottom plywood of the cabinet.

Set the drawer in place, and then push down on the inside of the drawer to slide the drawer out without moving the whole slide, only slide it out a small way and climb over the drawer to attach screws! Then pull the drawer out furthur to place other screws!

DIY TV Stand - setting the drawer in place

DIY TV Stand - Attaching drawer slides to the DVD drawers

First drawer is IN!!! Pop open a cold drink and celebrate!!๐Ÿ˜

DIY TV Stand

The next drawer needs supports to attach the drawer slides to, so I added 2 – 1x5s to attach the slides to, you can use another size board if you can’t find 1x5s but I wouldn’t go with a smaller board, only larger. If you went with a smaller board, there wouldn’t be a place for more than 2 screws in the slides!

I attached the 1x5s the same way I did all the other shelves, just a 1×2 brace. I went ahead and put both of the sets of 1x5s in at this point because you can move them out of your way, but if you don’t put them in at this point you won’t have enough room to put them in!

The first set goes in at 7 1/4″ from the bottom of the cabinet, to the bottom of the 1×5. Second goes in at 15″ up from the bottom of the cabinet to the bottom of 1×5. (supports go below)

DIY TV Stand

Now all you have to do is build the other 2 drawer boxes and put them in! Keeping the back of the cabinet open is the only way to get the top drawer slides in! After it is all in and finished, then you can add the back…or not as I have yet to do!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ

DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Building Out the Right Side of the DIY TV Stand

DIY TV Stand - Media Console with Gaming storage

On to the shelves! Woot, Woot!

Now, just an FYI, the shelves must be in BEFORE the doors go on!

The top shelf is the exact same as on the left side. It is just set a little lower to allow for taller gaming consoles. It is set at 20″ up from the bottom of the cabinet.

DIY TV Stand - Media Cabinet

DIY Gaming Media Console

On the right side, the same 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ support boards are used to support all shelves. You can choose whether or not you want to screw the shelf down to the support boards or not.

The next shelf is the verticle shelf to the left.

DIY TV Stand / Media Cabinet

Then the second horizontal shelf.

In this pic below. it does not show the notch cut, but it does NEED TO BE NOTCHED only on the right side but just like the top shelf! The notch will be 1″ inward and 4 1/2″ long. The door will not open if it is not notched!

DIY Media Cabinet - Tons of storage to house all things media and gaming!

Last but not least is the vertical divider!

DIY TV Stand

Boom! DONE! Fill it up with all the stuff that has been lying around for the last year…oh that’s just me?! My bad!๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ˜‚

DIY TV Stand - Media Console with Gaming storage

Now put doors on this side to COMPLETE your DIY media cabinet, gaming storage, tv stand, whatever you want to call it!! Or heck you can use it as a buffet, or any other table you need! Here’s the link to the DOWEL AND PIPE HINGES in case you missed it above!

And just like that, you made a beautiful piece of artwork that hides and organizes all of your tv watching and gaming needs!

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

DIY TV Stand / Media Console

I happen to LOVE it! It looks EVEN BETTER in real life, if that’s even possible!๐Ÿ˜Š

Well, I better get to work on all my fun fall projects I have planned over the next couple weeks! See you soon!

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DIY TV Stand - Media Console

Filed Under: Furniture, Organization Tagged With: bedroom furniture, gaming storage, livingroom furniture, media storage

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

October 22, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Y’all, I swear I went into Hobby Lobby to get marigold and orange-colored FALL decor items…but I came out with neutral greens, blues, and white makings for a DIY Neutral Fall wreath! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™ˆ

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

The saying, “Old habits are hard to break,” is no lie!! I am not a fan of oranges and yellows in general, but I was loving some of the ideas I had seen on Pinterest and in the Pottery Barn magazine, so this year I was going all-in on the REAL fall colors! Lol! Nope, naturally, my mind and old habits had other plans! I am just going to blame Hobby Lobby for being sold out of almost everything fall-related!๐Ÿ˜…

Well, just in case you can’t break your habit of purchasing neutral fall decor like me, I’ll show you how I made this wreath! ๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY Fall Wreath with Pumpkins

Wanna make it later? PIN IT!

DIY Fall Wreath with Pumpkins

Materials for DIY Neutral Fall Wreath:

*Amazon links below are affiliate links! Affiliate links offer me a small commission at no extra cost to you, if you make a purchase after clicking one! It helps me keep this small little blog running, so I appreciate it!๐Ÿ˜˜ Other links are just for the convenience of finding the same products I used!

–grapevine wreath

-2 – eucalyptus stems

-1 – dusty miller stem

-1 box of pumpkins

–hot glue gun and glue sticks

–floral wire

–ribbon

Making the Neutral Fall Wreath

Gather ‘dem supplies! I purchased most items at Michaels and Hobby Lobby, if you aren’t going out much Amazon has the same stems (just search eucalyptus and dusty miller stems), they are just a little more expensive!

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

Sorry, all the shots for the tutorial are darker than I would like, and they are upside down to the camera, so that is why they look strange! Lol! But it was easier to see what I was doing this way as opposed to the other way! ๐Ÿ˜… I’ll try to do better next time! ๐Ÿ˜ฌ

I always start by taking my grapevine wreath form and lay my florals out on it to get an idea of exactly how I want them to be placed before I start gluing and cutting. I did cut the large stem off though, just did not cut them apart!

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

Fall Wreath with Pumpkins

I even had to check the bow! Lol!

Fall Wreath with Pumpkins

Okay, I think I like my idea, so I can move on and ACTUALLY start making the neutral fall wreath!๐Ÿ˜‰

I went ahead and cut apart the eucalyptus!

Fall Wreath with Pumpkin and neutral colors

I didn’t completely cut it apart, I left the one main branch together.

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

Then placed the main branch back where it was and hot glued it in place!

DIY Fall Wreath With Pumpkins

Repeat for the bottom.

DIY Fall Wreath with Pumpkins

I added floral wire around the stems and tied in the back just to make sure those babies stay in place!

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

I added glue to some of the smaller pieces of eucalyptus that I cut off earlier and attached them on the top and bottom.

DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

Next, I added the dusty miller small pieces of the stem. One on the “top” section and one on the “bottom” section, hot glued in place.

DIY Fall Pumpkin Wreath

DIY Fall Pumpkin Wreath

I wrapped a piece of ribbon around all the greenery at this point and hot glued it in place. I’ll make the bow later but for now, that’s how I left it! Lol!

DIY Fall Pumpkin Wreath

DIY Fall Wreath

DIY Front Door Wreath for Fall

Now add those pumpkins to give it that FALL FLAIR!!๐Ÿ‘Œ Just put ample hot glue all over the bottoms of the pumpkins, you may need to add more once you have it in place!

DIY Front Door Wreath for Fall

DIY Front Door Wreath for Fall

DIY Front Door Wreath for Fall

DIY Fall Pumpkin Wreath

Oh man, I may be biased but I think it’s looking soooo good! ๐Ÿ˜

Last little tidbit, make that faux bow that I swear I put on EVERY dang wreath I make! ๐Ÿ˜‚ I warned you that I can’t break my old habits! I don’t lie! ๐Ÿ˜‚ I do think you could leave it JUST like it is in the above photo and it would be perfect, I am kinda wondering why I didn’t! Lol!

I make this faux bow as you will see in my Christmas wreath from last year, and my spring wreath from YEARS ago as well! It’s about the EASIEST way to ever make a bow.

Make a large loop, whatever size you want the bow, find the middle of the loop and then make as many more loops that same size. My bow is three loops obviously!

 

DIY Fall Wreath how to tutorial

DIY Fall Pumpkin Wreath

DIY Fall Wreath

Cut the ribbon a little longer than needed for the bow to wrap around the middle, as if you tied it!

DIY Fall Wreath with neutral pumpkins

You will want to cut another piece of ribbon to be the tails of the bow…FAKE, FAKE, FAKE I tell you! LOLOL!

DIY Front Door Wreath for Fall

Hot glue it to the back of the bow.

DIY Fall Wreath with neutral colors and pumpkins

Attach the bow with hot glue to your wreath where you wrapped the ribbon earlier!

DIY Fall Wreath with neutral colors and pumpkins

DIY Fall Wreath with neutral colors and pumpkins

DIY Fall Neutral Wreath

Boom, DONE!

DIY Fall Wreath with neutral colors and pumpkins

I love it! It is simple elegance and I am here for it!๐Ÿค—

DIY Fall Front Door Wreath

Now I just need to get some pretty plants in that empty planter!๐Ÿ˜‚ I can’t win ’em all Jack! Hope you like the new wreath! I’d love for you to share it if you do!๐Ÿ˜˜

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DIY Fall Wreath with Pumpkins

Filed Under: Crafts, Wall Decor Tagged With: fall decor, pumpkins, wreath

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets

September 22, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Hey there! So I thought I had published all my kitchen renovation posts…and then I saw this little draft sitting all alone, ready to be published but not! Lol! Here it is, all about how to paint kitchen cabinets!

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets

I am telling you, I was beyond skeptical about painting my kitchen cabinets…but ordering a whole new kitchen this large of cabinets was out of the question for my budget!

[Read more…] about How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets

Filed Under: How To, Remodeling, Tips and Tricks Tagged With: gray island, ktichen renovation, painting cabinets, painting kitchen cabinets, white kitchen

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

September 1, 2020 by Cara Leave a Comment

Here it is! The post and plans you all have been waiting for…DIY Plans for Chicken Coop…okay, maybe I have just been waiting to share them! Lol! This set of plans has me so excited because it’s a big build but so rewarding! You may not realize that you need chickens in your life, but you do I swear!๐Ÿ˜‰

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

I have a funny story for you all! Remember when I posted the plans for my small chicken coop? (DIY Small Chicken Coop if you haven’t seen it or want the whole story) Well, I tell the story of getting a rooster and how I had to quickly make a coop for him because he couldn’t be in with my hens… he was big and they were small! All that work and HE started laying eggs! ๐Ÿ˜‚ But that’s not even the best part, we don’t know if we mixed him up and he’s been living in the big coop with the ladies, or HE is actually a HEN!! ๐Ÿ˜… But either way, I promised plans for a large chicken coop…and here they are! I am beyond excited with how it turned out and how well it works for our chickens…and possibly rooster!๐Ÿ˜†

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Don’t mind that the coop is already dirty and large weeds are growing everywhere, it has been raining here, Hurricane Hanna hit south of us a little while back, so the rain was constant for what seemed like weeks, and then more rain came! Plus the chickens have been living in the coop for well over two months now!๐Ÿ˜ฒ And the hideous fence is coming out soon, but these things take time… so for a small while, I have to look at a couple of fence eyesores! Lol! Our whole yard, our house, the goat shed… everything is under construction!๐Ÿ˜† If only I could clone myself for free labor! Lol!

DIY plans for chicken coop

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

Y’all never in a million years could you have told me that I was going to have chickens and hug them and love them, would I ever believe you! ๐Ÿ˜‚ But I do!! They are hilarious and we LOVE them as a part of our family! I laugh when I think of this because they are chickens…CHICKENS, I never liked chickens, but now I’m in love, not just with them, but with their coop as well!๐Ÿ˜

DIY Chicken Coop

Free Ranging Chickens

DIY Chicken Coop Chickens Free Ranging

DIY Chicken Coop

Anyway, I could sit here and share 8000 pics of my ladies but I will stick to the plans…chicken coop plans that is! Lol!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

I am not going to lie, it was a trial and error, and oops, and dang it, all the time on this build! It was some of the dumbest things that I forgot to take into consideration! For instance, I was making the chicken coop plans for 8’x8′ to utilize the supplies, well in my haste to get started and get this baby built…because the chickens were living in MY HOUSE ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿ˜… I built all four walls at 8 foot long! *Forehead in palm!!!! Why?! Oy!

Plans for DIY Chicken Coop

But despite the setbacks and mistakes, I got it built and with minimal extra materials! So the plans will be exactly like as I built mine and if I get around to it, I’ll try to draw them up at the 8’x8′ if I have time later on! The dimensions are 8′ x 8′ 7″ for the main coop and the run is an additional 6’x16′ for a grand total of 8′ 7″ x 24′.

All in all, for materials I believe I spent around $1200-1300. Now it can be more or less depending on the cost of materials in your area. And I don’t even want to add in the gas, food, and Starbucks every other day when I made a material run because I forgot something! Lol!

There are ways to minimalize cost though, for instance, the roof rafters were cut at roughly 63″, I can easily get 8-foot boards into my van, but not 12 footers, if you can get 12-foot boards you will save 10 bucks just on the rafters. It seems small but then you look at all the trim boards as well, the vertical frame boards, and before you know it, boom it is a hundred dollar savings or more and I will take that ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!!๐ŸŽ‰ The materials list consists of 12-foot replacements where available but shows the number of 8-foot boards if you are like me and cannot easily carry 12-foot boards, or they don’t deliver to your area!

Alright, you ready to become a crazy chicken lady and build your very own chicken coop and love your chickens like family?๐Ÿ˜‚ Here are the plans!

DIY PLANS FOR CHICKEN COOP

I separated the plans up a bit because it is a lot for one file. The plans and tutorials for the other parts of the coop are below, but if you sign up for the email once you will receive all the files so you don’t have to enter your email 5 times! Lol!

Chicken Coop Run

Shutters

Nesting Box

Chicken Coop Dutch Door

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DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Materials for DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans

This material list only has the materials for the main coop, the run materials will be at the link above along with the plans for that, shutters the same, etc.

*Note: Amazon links below are affiliate links! Affiliate links work in that when you make a purchase after clicking on a link below, I make a small percentage of commission off of your purchase at no extra cost to you! It is a real win-win for us so I can keep this content coming for free! Thanks in advance! Also note, ONLY Amazon links are affiliate links, all other links are just provided to help you find products!

-23 – 2x4x8

-17 – 2x4x12 (or add 30 – 2x4x8s to the above number if you can’t get 12-foot boards in your car like me!๐Ÿ˜‰)

-2 – 2x4x10

-9 – 4×8 sheets of 1/2″ plywood

-3 – 3′ x 12′ sheets of steel roofing panels

-1 – 10′ steel roofing ridge

-1 – 1x6x8

-15 – 1x2x8 (I used furring strips)

-21 – 1x4x8 (I used furring strips)

-1 – bag of 1 1/2″ steel roofing screws with a neoprene washer

-1 – bag of 2 1/2″ steel roofing screws with gasket

-1 – box of 3 1/8″ screws

-1 – box of 2 1/2″ screws

-1 – large container of 2 1/2″ Kreg screws

– brad nails in sizes from 3/4″ to 2″ lengths

-12 – small Simpson Strong-tie roof brackets

-6 – large Simpson Strong-tie roof brackets

-1 – box of Simpson Strong-tie hex head screws for roof brackets

–100 ft roll of 1/2″ or 1/4″ hardware cloth- 36″x100′

–50 ft roll of 1/2″ or 1/4″ hardware cloth – 36″x50′

-5 gallons of paint of your choice (I used Behr Exterior paint, color-matched to SW Alabaster)

–5 cans Charcoal Gray spray paint for the roof

–Drill

–Miter Saw

–Circular Saw

–Kreg Jig

–Paint Sprayer

CUT LIST:

Run Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-6 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 55″ (header)

-4 – 2×4 @ 6 1/2″ (supports to attach run to)

Nestingย  Box Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-4 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 65″ (horizontal nesting box opening)

-2 – 2×4 @ 32″ (top studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 20″ (bottom studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 14″ (sides of box opening)

Door Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-4 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-1 – 2×4 @ 28″ (header)

-8 – 2×4 @ 13 1/4″ (supports to attach plywood)

Window Wall:

-2 – 2×4 @ 96″ (top and bottom rails)

-6 – 2×4 @ 69″ (studs)

-2 – 2×4 @ 45″ (vertical window boards)

-2 – 2×4 @ 38 1/2″ (horizontal window boards)

-1 – 2×4 @ 10 1/2″ ( bottom stud)

Rafters:

-10 – 2×4 @ 63 1/8″ – mitered @ 25 degrees off square both ends, parallel

-2 – 2×4 @ 104″ – mitered @ 65 degrees off square both ends, not parallel

-24 – 2×4 @ 22 1/2″

Plywood for walls:

-5 -1/2″ sheets of plywood cut down to 71 1/2″ cutouts will be shown below, 4 sheets will stay 8′.

TRIM BOARDS: (You will want to measure your actual spaces to cut trim boards, they may differ from mine slightly!)

Run Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 16 43/64″ (bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×3 @ 3 1/2″ (bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 67 5/16″ (opening trim)

-1 – 1×4 @ 62 3/64″ (opening trim)

-1 – 1×3 (ripped down from a 1×4) @ย  (top horizontal trim)

-2 – 2×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

– 2 – 1×2 @ 68 1/2″ (battens)

Nesting Box Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 97″(top and bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 65 13/32″(vertical side trim)

-1 – 1×4 @ 68″(vertical board above nesting box)

-5 – 1×2 @ 25 35/64″ (battens on top of nesting box)

-5 – 1×2 @ 17 7/8″ (battens below nesting box)

Door Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 35 11/64″ (bottom horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×3 (ripped a 1×4 furring strip down) @ 31 23/32″ (top straight horizontal trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 69 11/16″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest end (side vertical trim)

-2 – 2×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 63 1/8″ both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel (roof peak trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 69″ (door frame)

-2 – 1×2 @ 36″ (door frame)

-1 – 1×6 @ 35″ (door frame)

-1 – 1×3 @ 37″ (door frame)

-4 – 1×2 @ 67 5/16″ (bottom battens)

-2 – 1×2 @ 4 45/64″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest side (top battens)

-2 – 1×2 @ 11 63/64″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest side (top battens)

-2 – 1×2 @ 16 9/32″ one end mitered at 25 degrees off square, longest side (top battens)

Window Wall:

-2 – 1×4 @ 97″ (top and bottom horizontal trim)FYI – I did not purchase expensive 1x4x10s for these boards, I cut roughly 5 inches off of my 8ft 1×4 furring strip and cut a 6″ piece off of scrap board.

-2 – 1×4 @ 65 13/32″ (side vertical trim)

-2 – 1×4 @ 45″ (window trim)

-1 – 1×4 @ 42 3/4″ (window trim)

-3 – 1×2 @ 43 3/4″ (window trim)

-1 – 1×6 @ 42 3/4″ (window trim)

-1 – 1×3 @ 44 3/4″ (window trim)

-3 – 1×2 @ 2 5/32″ (battens above window)

-3 – 1×2 @ 5 5/8″ (battens below window)

-2 – 1×2 @ 65 13/32″ (battens)

Building the DIY Chicken Coop

Just a little note for you all before we start building…I am NOT a professional construction worker, home builder, architect, or any other PROFESSIONAL of any sort! I am a mom who figures out ways to build what I want, consulting professionals at times, and making it up as I go along other times! ๐Ÿ˜ It all works out in the end even though it may not be considered the RIGHT way to do it! Lol! I’ve realized since starting this blog that pretty much EVERYONE has an opinion and they all differ on the CORRECT way to do something! But I am simply sharing the way I did this project and it may not be the BEST way, but it worked! Take that for what you will! ๐Ÿ˜…

Alright, if you are brave enough to continue on this project with me, let’s get started!๐Ÿ˜

Framing Out the DIY Chicken Coop

As with any structure we have to frame out the walls very first! All the walls are basically the same idea, a top and bottom plate, then 5 vertical studs arranged to support whatever openings you want! Some walls have a few extra boards to brace the openings for windows, nesting boxes, etc.

Framing the walls will take the 3 1/8″ screws listed in the materials. All boards will be screwed directly through the 2×4 plates and into the studs unless otherwise stated to drill pocket holes!

DIY Chicken Coop - Build Plans and tutorial

It is certainly helpful to have a second or third set of hands, even if they are kids! My boys helped a TON on this project, but walls can also be built by one person, as I built a couple on my own as well so don’t fret if you don’t have help, you can still build this chicken coop!

Building the Run Wall

This wall is a pretty simple build! I intentionally left this wall wide open to the run because it faces south for us, and that is where our breeze comes from all summer long! Heck in Texas it’s about 9 months out of our year and the ONLY way to survive is to have shade and breeze!

Basically, build an 8 foot by 6-foot rectangle and add studs where needed! It is easiest to add the studs at 19″ from the outside edge, then place the header boards in between. Screw the header boards to the side supports and put a couple of screws from the top 2×4 down into the header.

Adding the second support boards, closest to the edges after, allows the drill room to get in between to screw the header in…hope that makes sense. The second support boards will be placed 11″ from the outside edge.

DIY PLans for Chicken Coop - Large Chicken Coop

This creates your run wall, one down, three to go!

Building the Nesting Box Wall

The same concept as the run wall, build an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle. Add studs 14″ from the outside edge.

DIY Building a Chicken Coop

Build a box that is going to frame out the nesting box. Use 2- 2x4s @ 65″ to make the vertical boards of the box and 2 – 2x4s @ 14″ for the vertical. This photo also has the bottom studs added! They are 20″, 22″, and then 20″ apart. Or you can make them 21″ apart…not sure exactly how I ended up with the above! Lol!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans and build tutorial

Add the top studs. They are 32″ long and spaced the same as the bottom boards.

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Free Chicken Coop Plans and Build Tutorial

Nesting box wall…โœ”

Building the Door Wall

Again, start off with an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle. Add two studs 17 3/4″ from the outside edge. The second set of studs will be 32 1/2″ from the outside edge. A small header of a 2×4 @ 28″ in between the closest two studs, at the top, will be for the doorway! I added scrap 2x4s for hinges but ended up not using them! Lol!

Framing out the chicken coop walls

What you will need though that I didn’t realize until later, is 8 – 2x4s @ 13 1/4″ pocket holed, to allow a brace to attach the plywood to. Here’s the Sketchup photo to show you! (Ignore the 2×4 header that is turned the wrong way below, it should be flipped up to where you see the 1 1/2″ edge as in the photo above! Sorry for the confusion!)

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Door wall DONE! Can you believe it…3 walls down…only 1 to go! Yeah!

Building the Window Wall

The last wall to go, and then you can put them all together and start seeing the chicken coop come together!

Last time you have to build an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle! Lol! And for this wall, you will want to put 2 studs at 13 1/2″ from the outside edges, and then 2 studs at 25 3/4″ from the outside edges.

Build a rectangle for the window. Use 2 – 2x4s at 45″ to make the vertical window boards and 2 – 2x4s at 38 1/2″ to make the top and bottom of the window. Luckily you can screw these boards into place through the window!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans and tutorial

ALL FOUR WALLS ARE BUILT!! WOOHOO!!

If you have any questions as to the dimensions or locations of boards, make sure and download the printable plans to see detailed photos with dimensions!

Setting the Frame

At this point, before setting the walls, I sealed the bottom of all the 2x4s that would be touching the ground and attached hardware cloth with screws to the bottoms so that no animals could dig under the coop!

Here’s how she looked!๐Ÿ˜

Framing the DIY Large Chicken Coop

Now, we are doing the deep litter method, so there is no floor in the coop, the dirt makes the floor and you just add pine shavings weekly…it is AMAZING because there is no chicken poop smell at all! I did a lot of research before choosing this method and I am so glad I did! Plus, once a year, I have compost ready to be placed in the garden!

Literally, no cleaning the coop…we add pine shavings, and dust out the nesting boxes, THAT IS IT, and the ladies keep turning their poop into the dirt so you NEVER smell anything…besides dirt! Lol! Yes, there is a dust layer all over because of how they work the dirt, but that’s why we have great ventilation with the eaves, window, and open run wall! I COULD NOT BE HAPPIER that we went with this method!!

Anyway, back to setting the walls, I screwed the door wall to the window wall on the left, and nesting box wall on the right. That leaves the run wall attached to the window wall and nesting box wall on the backside!

***Make sure the walls are level on the ground…and each other before screwing them into place!***

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Maybe this will help you see the final outcome!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

One everything is level and screwed together, you can add the plywood to the walls.

Adding Plywood to the DIY Chicken Coop

You will want to measure all walls and openings prior to making any cuts in your plywood! The measurements given here are based on exact measurements, any small changes in measurements affect the measurements given below!

I attached plywood to the two sides that will remain 6ft. and then had to attach the roof rafters before adding plywood to the other two sides…measurements are based on doing it in this order.

Nesting Box Wall Plywood

Using 2 sheets of plywood that are cut down to 71 1/2″, make the nesting box cut out as shown below. (I altered the 72″ to 71 1/2″ to leave a gap between the edge of the plywood and the soil to keep it from resting on the dirt, which will make it rot faster!)

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Then using the same measurements cut another one opposite of the one above, or the same and flip it over! Lol!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans - Large Chicken Coop

 

Window Wall Plywood

Using 2 of the 1/2″ plywood sheets that are cut down to 71 1/2″, make the cutouts as shown below to accommodate the window opening! Again, you will cut two that are ultimately the same, just flipped opposite directions!

Plans for DIY Chicken Coop - Large size chicken coop with run

DIY Chicken Coop Plans for large chicken coop with run

DIY Plans For Chicken Coop

Building the Rafters for the DIY Chicken Coop

Time to add the rafters and REALLY make it look like a house of some sort!

You will make a total of five sets of rafters, 2 will have an extra board across the bottom of the rafter as seen below. I left the other 3 without this board so that the ceiling is open inside the coop and my hubby won’t hit his head! Lol! You can easily add a small brace towards the top if you’d like, but I found after the boards are added in between the rafters and all, there really wasn’t a need, they were pretty darn sturdy! We hung all over them and climbed on them and nothing was shifting whatsoever!

To build the three middle rafters, you will cut 2 boards at 63 1/8″ with both ends mitered at 25 degrees off square, ends parallel. Use pocket holes to attach the two boards together, drill pocket holes on one end of only one of the boards, holes will be drilled at 1 1/2″ deep and 2 1/2″ screws will be needed along with wood glue!

You can hardly see them, but the pocket holes are at the top on the left board!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

The bottom brace that will be on the end two rafters will be screwed in on the ends. This board will be cut at 104″ long with both ends mitered at 65 degrees off square, ends not parallel. It should be 6″ up from the end of the board it’s being attached to.

Plans for chicken coop - large chicken coop with free plans to build your own

DIY Chicken Coop

Now, I realize that typically, they notch the rafters to lay flat on the 2×4 of the wall, I tried and failed on two different 2x4s and gave up, found an option that was far easier for me, and rolled with it! Lol! I just attached the roof brackets directly to the 2x4s on both sides and it was sturdy enough…I mean crap, it has already survived a pretty good storm when hurricane Hanna came through! ๐Ÿ˜…

But before I get ahead of myself, let me show how I did a couple of things first! So to make cutting the plywood to fit over the rafters easier, I traced the rafter onto my plywood and cut it, before placing the rafters on the coop that way it wouldn’t be guessing at where to cut!

Make sure and measure up 71 1/2″ from the bottom and then lat your rafter there completely centered at the top. It will not reach the top completely! It’s okay, it will be covered by trim boards and no one will ever know! Lol!

DIY Chicken Coop Large

The photo above is for the door wall. I added another sheet of plywood that was going on the side and traced the rafter onto it as well. And because I made a mistake on one of my pieces of plywood, I had to piece together the door wall of the coop, you will have three solid pieces though!

This sounds a little confusing as I am trying to explain it, but it really isn’t…let me show you the photo of how the door wall plywood went on.

DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans

See how the pieces are pieced together. Your left side should look just like your right though, instead of two pieces patched together yours should be one! You will want to cut the door out before hanging the plywood as well!

Run wall plywood will look like this.

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

That is one 8ft sheet running longways. I cut it and attached it to the rafters before I put the rafter up to make it easier!

BACK TO THE RAFTER CONSTRUCTION!

So to make putting the rafters up easier, I attached the end rafters to another rafter while on the ground. You do not have the do them this way, it just helped us throw them up and attach them a lot quicker than if we had to add the middle boards while up on top of the coop. We only had to add the middle rafter, and that one took way longer! Lol!

So basically, I placed each end rafter down and attached the boards as below…use pocket holes drilled 1 1/2″ deep and use 2 1/2″ screws with wood glue to attach them to the boards. Place another rafter that is not an edge rafter (no bottom board) on top and pocket hole it into place! (Sorry I didn’t take the pic with the other rafter on, but the next pic shows it well enough I believe!)

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

Then attach the large rafter sections to the coop.

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

Building of the chicken coop, attaching the roof rafters

Just FYI, we added another bracket on the outside of that 2×4 as well…2 on every rafter. In the middle of the left side of the photo, you can see the brackets I used on the end rafters, I placed three along the rafter.

Not to jump ahead of ourselves, but here’s a pic of the rafters with both brackets!

DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans

You can then add the next rafter, or I went ahead and attached the plywood to the door wall (the front) to stabilize the rafter as we placed the middle one! Plus the plywood was already cut so it was quick and easy to throw up there!

DIY chicken coop plans - free printable plans to build your own large chicken coop with run

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

Yes, I get dressed up to work! ๐Ÿ˜‚ Don’t mind me over here in my glasses and pajamas!๐Ÿ˜…

Alright, back up in the rafters, attach the middle braces and the middle rafter!

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

DIY Chicken Coop Plans - Large Chicken Coop

Ooh, la la!!

DIY Chicken coop - free plans to build your own

Time to layout and screw down the roofing panels! I of course have no pictures of us putting it on because it was windy as heck that day so it was all hands on deck…er roof! Lol!

I spray painted my galvanized steel roof panels because it was going to take 6 weeks to get the charcoal gray in since they aren’t carried in-store. Boooo! I didn’t want to wait but it ended up taking us that long to build it anyway! ๐Ÿ˜‚ I should have just ordered it, but I did save a few dollars (maybe 20 bucks) by painting it vs ordering it, so there’s that!

If you choose to spray paint yours, make sure to wipe the steel down with vinegar, clean it really well with the vinegar so that the spray paint will adhere well to the galvanized coating!๐Ÿ‘

Time to add the plywood to the last side that needs it! The run wall still needs its plywood! Using one of the sheets of plywood that you cut down to 71 1/2″, and cut it directly in half at 24″, so you end up with two 24″ x 71 1/2″ pieces!

Plans for CHicken Coop

Okay, now that all the plywood is on, time to trim out the entire thing! ๐Ÿ˜†

Trimming Out the DIY Chicken Coop

I am going to pretty much show the pictures of the trim and offer any helpful tips I may have, and you can download the plans if you want to see exact measurements!

Run Wall Trim

I attached the run to the wall before completing the trim work, you can do it whichever way you want, I just wanted to be able to trim around it without being perfectly precise in my measurements!

I framed around the opening of course and then added the run to complete the trim.

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

If you need the chicken coop run plans, get them here: DIY CHICKEN COOP RUN

After attaching the run, I added trim to cover any plywood seams!

DIY Chicken Coop Plans

You can see the brackets we used to attach the run in the photo above as well! It is also screwed into the coop from the inside!

The final addition to the trim on the run wall that is not pictured, I added the battens to the top. They are mitered at 25 degrees off square on one end.

Plans for Chicken Coop

Nesting Box Wall Trim

The nesting box will need to be built in order to trim out this wall!

Get the nesting box plans here: DIY NESTING BOX

Well, guys, this is the extent of nesting box wall trim that I took! ๐Ÿ˜† Apparently it was getting dark and I was just trying to hurry up and finish! So, you will definitely want to check out the plans for this one!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

That gray bar is not supposed to be there…so don’t wonder which step you missed that told you to add that!๐Ÿ˜‚ It’s the top rail of the fence that we were taking out!

DIY Nesting Box for Chicken Coop

Door Wall Trim

DIY Chicken Coop PLans

Don’t mind that large gap at the top, those boards will be covered!

DIY Plans For Chicken Coop

DIY Plans for Large Chicken Coop

DIY Dutch Door for Chicken Coop

Window Wall Trim

Make sure and add the hardware cloth to the window before adding trim. You want the trim to not only hide the hardware cloth but keep it pinched between the plywood and trim!

DIY Plans for Chicken Coop

Don’t mind the caulk all over the wall…this particular area started cracking after the rain, so I thought I’d try a little caulk to seal it and cover it!๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ˜€DIY Chicken Coop PlansI did caulk all the horizontal boards to make sure water doesn’t seep behind them and cause the wood to rot!

Then I started painting baby!

Painting the DIY Chicken Coop

Using my Home Right sprayer, I was able to quickly spray the inside and outside of the chicken coop!

I LOVE this sprayer, I also have the older model but for this particular project, I suggest this one because it has three different tip sizes that allow you to use the largest one and spray really fast! I am talking 3 minutes max for an entire wall!๐Ÿ˜ต

DIY Painting of the Chicken Coop

That’s not actually a video! Lol! Only a screenshot from the video because it was on my phone and too big of a file to send and I haven’t had the time to download it to my computer! Sorry folks!

After spraying it inside and out, I just had to build and hang the DOOR and SHUTTERS to complete the building process!

The last thing I did before allowing the ladies to move in was adding hardware cloth to the eves to keep coons and other sly little critters out!๐Ÿญ๐Ÿ Using screws with a wafer head, I was able to just screw the hardware cloth to the frame and 2×4 on the rafters!

DIY PLans for chicken Coop

From the outside, you can’t even see the hardware cloth! It’s perfect! And DONE!

DIY Farmhouse Chicken Coop

I’m beyond excited to share these plans with you all, and would love for you to share them with your friends!

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DIY Large Chicken Coop Plans - Coop has run and nesting boxes

DIY PLans for Chicken Coop

Filed Under: Furniture, Homesteading, How To, Outdoor, PDF plans Tagged With: backyard chickens, chicken coop, shed, tiny house

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Welcome

Hey there! Welcome to the place I share all my diy adventures in hopes of inspiring you to pick up a hammer or drill and get to work building, crafting or renovating your dreams! I will show you step by step instructions on every project to help you see how easy it can be! I’m so glad to have you here! Look around, hopefully you will enjoy what you see!

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Recent Posts

  • DIY Gold Hexagon Napkin Rings
  • DIY Marble Epoxy Pumpkin Chargers
  • DIY Hinges Made From Dowel and Pipe
  • DIY TV Stand / Media Console
  • DIY Neutral Fall Wreath

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  • Whether you are serving wine at a holiday gathering, your wedding or just every night when you watch Netflix, this DIY Wine Dispenser is the perfect way to dispense boxed wine but make it look great! No one will even care that it was out of a box! The modern design can lend itself to any decor style. Perfect for giving as a gift to all the wine lovers in your life! #boxedwine #winestorageideas #winerack #winedispenser #giftforwinelover via @theinspiredworkshop
  • This beautiful DIY media console is not only GORGEOUS, but it has a well thought out interior to house all your tv watching and video gaming needs! There are DVD and game drawers, shelves that are perfectly spaced to hold gaming consoles of all sizes, and plenty of space for all the accessories such as headphones, controllers and even an amp! Don't need gaming storage, change the drawers to shelves and use it as a buffet in the dinning room! The beauty of this media cabi via @theinspiredworkshop
  • DIY Outdoor Planter made with scrap wood. #diyoutdoor #diyoutdoorprojects #diyplanters #scrapwood #diyprojects #diyideas #diyinspiration #diycrafts #diytutorial #diy
  • Pour in Place Concrete Countertops - Diy tutorial shows you how to pour  your own white or gray concrete countertops! Filled with helpful video snippets of what to expect when working with concrete for countertops! #diykitchenrenovation #diyconcretecountertops #concretecountertops
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It makes me happy when we all share… but please keep in mind that all images & text on this site are property of The Inspired Workshop. I love seeing my photos on other websites, just as long as there are no more than two per post, and they are linked back to my site! Please do not remove any watermarks, crop or edit any photos, or copy text off of this site without obtaining written permission from me first! Pinning is always welcome and appreciated! Thanks!

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DIY Vent Hood Plans and Kitchen UpdateDIY Vent Hood Plans and Kitchen Update

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Although I am sometimes given free product to review or am paid to help promote certain products/websites, all opinions on this website are 100% my OWN!! I only work with brands that I truly use and LOVE, and I have no problem turning down offers from brands that I do not feel are great quality, or would not use!! I promote many brands without incentive as well, I just enjoy sharing anything and everything I have found in hopes of make building/crafting simple enough everyone can do it!! You can be certain that if I am promoting it, I truly LOVE it!!

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